The History of SurfingMatt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing. |
What people are saying - Write a review
We haven't found any reviews in the usual places.
Contents
INTRODUCTION | 10 |
Out of the Blue Pre1900 | 15 |
Gliding Return 19001945 | 38 |
Malibu Swing 1945late 1950s | 90 |
Boom YearsA Massive Swelling Late 1950s1967 | 152 |
Barefoot Revolution 19661974 | 235 |
The Fortune Seekers Early 1970s1980 | 297 |
The Long and the Short of It 19811991 | 347 |
The Ride of Your Life 19902009 | 412 |
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS | 478 |
479 | |
488 | |
490 | |
Other editions - View all
Common terms and phrases
already American Aussie Australian beach became become began better big-wave boardmaker break Brown California called champion Championships club Coast competition contest cover curl decades developed didn’t dozen dropped Durban early event fact feet final finished five followed four front guys hand Hawaii Hawaiian head huge hundred idea included island kind late later less lineup living looked magazine Makaha Malibu Mark months move movie named never North Shore once Pacific paddle Pipeline played rest riders riding rode seemed short side Simmons South sport style summer surf surfboard surfers surfing’s swell thing thousand took tour turn Waikiki wanted wasn’t wave wave-riding West Young