The History of Surfing
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
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Out of the Blue Pre1900
Gliding Return 19001945
Malibu Swing 1945late 1950s
Boom YearsA Massive Swelling Late 1950s1967
Barefoot Revolution 19661974
The Fortune Seekers Early 1970s1980
American Aussie Australian beachboys beachfront became began big-wave bigger Blake boardmaker boom break Brown called Carroll champion competition Curren decades dozen Duke Kahanamoku early Endless Summer event Farrelly feet film foam Fred hemmings Gerry Lopez Gidget goofyfooter Greenough Greg Noll guys Hawaii Hawaiian Hobie Honolulu huge island late later lifeguard lineup longboard looked Lopez Makaha Malibu McTavish Nat Young never North Shore noseriding Nuuhiwa ocean ofthe Pacific paddle Phil edwards Pipeline pros Quiksilver reef riders rode San Diego Santa Severson Shaun Tomson shortboard shot Simmons South Southern California sport Sunset Beach Surf Club surf contest surf journalist surf magazine surf movie surf-world surfboard surfers surfing’s swell Sydney Tavarua teenage thing Tom Curren Tomson took tube tuberiding turn Velzy Waikiki Waimea wave-riding wetsuit who’d wipeout women’s World Championships world tour