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aboard adventure ahead Ardmore Ardnamurchan Point Armada ashore beach boats bracken breakers bundle Calum Calve camp canal Canna canoes carried channel clan Claymore Clyde coast cockpit craft Crinan Crinan Canal croft Cuillins dances dark deck Dorus Mor Dunvegan Eigg farm Firth fish Gaelic Glasgow going hands harbour heaving Hebrides Highland problem in-out island Isles Kerrera knew Kyles Kyles of Bute land launch leaving lifted living Loch Fyne look MacLeans mainland Mallaig miles morning Muck never night Oban ourselves paddling pier rain Rhum road rocks round sail scene scones Scotland Scottish Seumas shelter ship shore side sight skipper Skye Small Isles Sound of Mull Sound of Sleat steamer stern story Tarbert tent tide Tobermory took tourist town trip turned village watch waves weather West whole wind yards