Wave Mechanics for Ocean EngineeringIn a unitary way, this monograph deals with a wide range of subjects related to the mechanics of sea waves. The book highlights recent theoretical results on the dynamics of random windgenerated waves, on longterm wave statistics, and on beach planform evolution. A fresh approach is given to more traditional concepts. For example, new evidence from a recent series of smallscale field experiments is used to introduce some crucial topics like wave forces. Also, the book gives some worked examples for the design of offshore or coastal structures.

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Contents
1  
the control volume approach  39 
Chapter 3 Wave effects on coasts  87 
basic concepts  119 
the time domain  153 
Chapter 6 The wave climate  183 
Chapter 7 Design waves and risk analysis  207 
Chapter 8 Analysis of the sea states in the spacetime  249 
Chapter 11 Analysis of the wave forces on offshore structures  361 
Chapter 12 Calculation of the wave forces on offshore structures  393 
Chapter 13 Stability analysis of coastal structures  419 
Chapter 14 Topics calling for an overall overview of offshore and coastal engineering  447 
Appendix to chapters 6 and 7 use of wave hindcast and wave measurements from satellites  463 
Appendix to chapters 9 and 10 the wave group of the maximum expected crest elevation and the wave group of the maximum expected cresttotroug...  475 
487  
493  
Chapter 9 The theory of quasideterminism  281 
Chapter 10 Uses and consequences of the quasideterminism theory  311 
Common terms and phrases
amplitude angle autocovariance breakwater centre confidence interval contour lines control volume cosh kd covariance matrix crest elevation d/Lo deep water diffraction coefficient equal equation evaluated expected wave height experiment RC fixed point fixed threshold formula frequency function Gaussian process genetic code height H Hence highest wave hindcast horizontal force infinitely narrow integral large height linear maximum expected wave maximum wave height mean water level nondimensional nourished beach number of waves occurs orthogonal parameter periodic waves planform platform pressure head waves probability density function probability of exceedance quotient Reggio Calabria return period sect shallow water significant wave height sinh smaller solid cylinder solution stochastically independent structure surface displacement threshold H tunnel velocity potential vertical water cylinder water depth water surface wave crest wave direction wave force wave group wave of given wave period wavelength wind waves zero