## Waves in Oceanic and Coastal WatersWaves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters. |

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### Contents

Introduction | 1 |

Observation techniques | 10 |

Description of ocean waves | 24 |

Statistics | 56 |

Linear wave theory oceanic waters | 106 |

Waves in oceanic waters | 145 |

Linear wave theory coastal waters | 197 |

Waves in coastal waters | 244 |

The SWAN wave model | 286 |

310 | |

318 | |

347 | |

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### Common terms and phrases

ambient current amplitude approach Battjes bottom buoy coastal waters coefﬁcient computations constant crest height deep water deﬁned deﬁnition diffraction dissipation energy balance estimated etal fetch ﬁrst ﬁxed Gaussian group velocity harmonic wave Holthuijsen horizontal individual wave integral interval JONSWAP spectrum large number linear wave theory log-normal distribution motion nonlinear observations ocean waves one-dimensional parameter peak frequency phase speed Pr{H probability density function quadruplet wave–wave interactions random variable random-phase/amplitude model Rayleigh distribution reﬂection refraction Resio sea surface sea-surface elevation Section shallow water signiﬁcant wave height source term spectral stationary statistical storm surf zone surface elevation SWAN two-dimensional variance density spectrum vector velocity potential vertical Vledder water depth water particles water surface wave components wave direction wave energy wave length wave models wave number wave period wave rays wave record wave spectrum wave-induced Weibull distribution white-capping wind speed x-direction