Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

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Cambridge University Press, Feb 4, 2010 - Science
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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
 

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Contents

Introduction
1
Observation techniques
10
Description of ocean waves
24
Statistics
56
Linear wave theory oceanic waters
106
Waves in oceanic waters
145
Linear wave theory coastal waters
197
Waves in coastal waters
244
The SWAN wave model
286
Appendix A Random variables 310
310
Appendix B Linear wave theory 318
318
Spectral analysis 324
347

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Page 347 - An improved model of the ocean surface wave vector spectrum and its effects on radar backscatter, J.
Page 358 - Spencer (1976). Extreme wave parameters based on continental shelf storm wave records.

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