Wind on the Water: And Other Surf Stories
Surfing has always had a lot more to it than just surfing I've always seen it as a spectrum, some part of it physical, a big part of it mental At one extreme is an expanse of open ocean over which the wind blows, imparting energy. At the other is a state of mind, and a way of seeing things ...From the wintry waters of Victoria to the sunny North Coast in search of the perfect wave, experience the freefall of a lip launch, the ecstasy of the tube, the sheer delight in skimming a sunlit waveface at dawn, and the depths of a thorough pasting by that unexpected bigger set out the back - all the while negotiating the interactions of the local lineup sWind on the Water is about the true art of surfing: the attitude, imagination and wider mindset of the surfer, and the riding of life's waves. There are stories of battling ferocious storms at sea, the lifting and wheeling of an albatross surfing its first wave, and the unlikely parallels between surfing and boxing, to name just a few.This collection from acclaimed Australian surf writer Jack Finlay will resonate strongly with anyone who is drawn to the mystique of ocean swells. Beautifully evocative and coupled with photographs by foremost surfing photographer Jon Frank, this book is the essential companion for anyone who has ever plunged into the ocean and marvelled at its energy and power.
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