Beach Processes and Sedimentation
Introduces beach processes within an approach that balances an engineering perspective against a purely geological one. Provides an up-to-date review of the current understanding of beach processes as well as applications to solve coastal problems (erosion, management issues, etc.). Discusses issues related to beach erosion and other processes. The second edition of Beach Processes and Sedimentation has been updated to include information gathered from two decades of science and engineering in the field, reflecting the vast increase in knowledge since the first edition. Discusses the rise of coastal zone management as well as patterns of wave transformations and dissipation within the surf zone, and how these water motions produce cross-shore movements of sediment resulting in beach-profile variations. An essential reference book for many readers: from beach front property owners to politicians contending with beachfront erosion to engineers addressing beachfront reclamation projects.
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Introduction to the Study of Beaches
Theories of Wave Motions
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Bagnold barrier islands beach cusps beach face beach profile beach sands beach sediments beach slope beachrock berm bioturbation Bowen and Inman breaker zone breakwater cell circulation Chapter Chesil Beach coast coastal curve decrease deep water deposits developed direction dunes edge waves effects energy flux equation equilibrium example flow Geophys grain grain size increase jetty Komar laboratory littoral drift longshore current Longuet-Higgins meters motion nearshore oblique wave approach observed ocean offshore onshore orbital particles pebbles phase velocity Proc produced rhythmic topography ridges rip currents ripples river sand transport sea level seaward sediment transport selective sorting Shepard shore shoreline shoreward significant wave solitary wave Sonu storm submarine canyon surf zone surface swash swash zone tidal tide tion troughs U.S. Army velocity water depth water level wave action wave crests wave energy wave height wave length wave period wave refraction wave steepness wind
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Coastal Environments: An Introduction to the Physical, Ecological and ...
R. W. G. Carter
No preview available - 1988