Beach Processes and SedimentationIntroduces beach processes within an approach that balances an engineering perspective against a purely geological one. Provides an up-to-date review of the current understanding of beach processes as well as applications to solve coastal problems (erosion, management issues, etc.). Discusses issues related to beach erosion and other processes. The second edition of Beach Processes and Sedimentation has been updated to include information gathered from two decades of science and engineering in the field, reflecting the vast increase in knowledge since the first edition. Discusses the rise of coastal zone management as well as patterns of wave transformations and dissipation within the surf zone, and how these water motions produce cross-shore movements of sediment resulting in beach-profile variations. An essential reference book for many readers: from beach front property owners to politicians contending with beachfront erosion to engineers addressing beachfront reclamation projects. |
Contents
Introduction to the Study of Beaches | 1 |
Coastal Geomorphology | 11 |
Theories of Wave Motions | 36 |
Copyright | |
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apparent application approach approximately barrier bars beach beach face becomes bottom breaker breaker zone breaking California cause cell changes Chapter cliff coast coastal crest curve cusps decrease demonstrated deposits depth developed direction distance drift edge waves effects energy equation erosion example field Figure flow force give given grain greater important increase indicate Inman Island length littoral longshore current mean measurements meters motion moving natural nearshore observed obtained occurs ocean offshore onshore orbital pattern pebbles period position predicted present processes produced range reached relationship rip currents ripples river sand sea level seaward sediment seen shore shoreline shown slope sorting spacing steepness storm structures surf zone surface swash swell theory tidal tide tion transport troughs United variations velocity wave height wave period wave theory wind zone