Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface |
Contents
Ideal Waves | 23 |
Wind Waves | 40 |
Waves in Shallow Water | 74 |
Copyright | |
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Ancient Ships ashore average beach face Berge Istra berm bottom break breakwater built California capillary waves cause changes cliff coast coastal currents deep water depth Dukw engineer erosion feet high flow force harbor huge hulled ship hundred feet internal waves island jetties knots large ships large waves low tide marine archaeologist meters miles moon motion moving observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific percent period PLATE pressure reef refraction Rip currents ripples rock sailing ships sand sank sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship sinkings shore shoreline side slope small waves solitary waves speed steep sunk surf surfer swell tank thousand per century tidal tide gauge tion trough tsunami underwater usually velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water surface wave action wave channel wave crests wave energy wave front wave height wave length wave of translation Willard Bascom wind wooden sailing ships zone