Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean SurfaceExamines the complex interactions between major coastal features and waves, tides, currents, and surf including man's attempts to control shoreline damage |
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Contents
Wind Waves | 40 |
Waves in Shallow Water | 74 |
REFLECTION DIFFRACTION REFRACTION TRAPPED | 87 |
Copyright | |
11 other sections not shown
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Common terms and phrases
average basin beach face berm boat bottom breakers breakwater buoy California Cape Horn capillary waves caused changes cliff coast coastal currents deep water depth Dukw dunes effect engineer erosion feet high feet long flow force harbor hundred feet internal waves island jetties knots land large waves littoral drift low tide measured meters miles moon motion moving º º observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific period PLATE pressure pump record refraction Rip currents ripple tank ripples rock rogue wave sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship shore shoreline side slope small waves speed steep storm waves structure surfboard surfer swell tank tidal Tidal bore tide gauge tion transport trough tsunami turbine underwater velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave crest wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation
Bibliographic information
| Title | Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface A Doubleday Achor book Anchor Books Volume 534 of Science study series |
| Author | Willard Bascom |
| Illustrated by | Willard Bascom |
| Edition | 2, illustrated, revised |
| Publisher | Anchor Press, 1980 |
| Original from | the University of California |
| Digitized | May 8, 2009 |
| ISBN | 0385148445, 9780385148443 |
| Length | 366 pages |
| Subjects | › Science / General |
| Export Citation | BiBTeX EndNote RefMan |