Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface |
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Page 227
... underwater parts of a beach may take . Rip currents are formed when waves break on a shal- low underwater bar in rapid succession . The water they hurl shoreward in foamlines cannot easily return seaward along the bottom but " piles up ...
... underwater parts of a beach may take . Rip currents are formed when waves break on a shal- low underwater bar in rapid succession . The water they hurl shoreward in foamlines cannot easily return seaward along the bottom but " piles up ...
Page 251
... underwater profile is likely to be smooth and barless . In winter the berm is higher and narrower , as most of the sand moves underwater to create the bars . The reason for the shift is the change in wave action with the season . The ...
... underwater profile is likely to be smooth and barless . In winter the berm is higher and narrower , as most of the sand moves underwater to create the bars . The reason for the shift is the change in wave action with the season . The ...
Page 324
... underwater ) and the sandstone 140 pounds per cubic foot ( 76 underwater ) . The force required to overturn the granite is 540 pounds per square foot of wave pressure , but the sandstone goes over at 390 pounds per square foot ...
... underwater ) and the sandstone 140 pounds per cubic foot ( 76 underwater ) . The force required to overturn the granite is 540 pounds per square foot of wave pressure , but the sandstone goes over at 390 pounds per square foot ...
Contents
Ideal Waves | 23 |
Wind Waves | 40 |
Waves in Shallow Water | 74 |
Copyright | |
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Ancient Ships ashore average beach face Berge Istra berm bottom break breakwater built California capillary waves cause changes cliff coast coastal currents deep water depth Dukw engineer erosion feet high flow force harbor huge hulled ship hundred feet internal waves island jetties knots large ships large waves low tide marine archaeologist meters miles moon motion moving observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific percent period PLATE pressure reef refraction Rip currents ripples rock sailing ships sand sank sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship sinkings shore shoreline side slope small waves solitary waves speed steep sunk surf surfer swell tank thousand per century tidal tide gauge tion trough tsunami underwater usually velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water surface wave action wave channel wave crests wave energy wave front wave height wave length wave of translation Willard Bascom wind wooden sailing ships zone