Computer-Aided Pattern Design and Product Development

Front Cover
John Wiley & Sons, Feb 5, 2009 - Business & Economics - 232 pages
The use of computers has opened up remarkable opportunities for innovative design, improved productivity, and greater efficiency in the use of materials. Uniquely, this book focuses on the practical use of computers for clothing pattern design and product development. Readers are introduced to the various computer systems which are suitable for the industry, the principles and techniques of pattern design applied to computer systems are explained, and readers are shown how product data management can be used in clothing product development.
 

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Contents

Pattern construction
1
Computerised body measuring systems
4
Size chart formulation
8
Womens size charts
9
Pattern construction techniques
20
Creating pattern shapes by computer
21
Block pattern construction
25
Garment shaping by suppression
27
Collar styling
128
Collar patterns
129
Types of collars
130
Adaptation for a flat collar
131
Adaptation for a semistand collar
132
Adaptation for a grownon collar
134
Construction of a highstand collar
136
Adaptation for a convertible collar
137

Ease allowance
28
Drafting block patterns
29
Construction of primary block patterns
30
Fitted bodice block size 12
33
Straight sleeve block size 12
38
Basic trouser block size 12
40
Construction of secondary block patterns
46
Onepiece dress blocks
48
Fitted onepiece dress block
49
Straight onepiece dress block
52
Adaptation for a semifitted onepiece dress block
54
Dartless block tops and blouses
55
Computer pattern grading
61
Grade point movement
62
Methods of recording incremental growth
63
Constructing a grade rule table
64
Variations in positioning the zero point
66
Grading primary block patterns
71
Straight skirt grading that retains the same proportion
72
Straight skirt grading that changes the proportion
74
Fitted bodice and semifitted sleeve grading that retains the same proportion
76
Fitted bodice and semifitted sleeve grading that changes the proportion
79
Trouser grading that retains the same proportion
81
Trouser grading that changes the proportion
84
Grading secondary block patterns
86
Knitted top grading
87
Blouse grading
89
Pattern preparation for digitising
92
Checking the master pattern
93
Building grade rule tables
95
Verifying the pattern grading
96
Pattern designing and grading
97
Skirt styling
99
Gathered skirt with flounce
100
Pleats
101
Flared and gored skirts
102
Construction of circular skirts
105
Skirt style and yoke and pleats
109
Pockets
111
Piped pocket
112
Inset pocket
113
Waist band and placket
114
Bodice styling
115
Pivoting a dart
117
Combining darts
118
Combining darts for gathering
119
Combining darts into gathers at a saddle yoke seam
120
Combining darts to form draped folds
122
Incorporating darts into seams
124
Modification for a sleeveless armhole
126
Modification for a lower cutaway round neckline
127
Draft for a high roll collar
138
Draft for a shirt collar
139
Sleeve styling
140
Sleeve lengths
141
Blouse sleeve with buttoned cuff
142
Half puff sleeve
143
Full puff sleeve with frill
144
Raglan sleeve
145
Kimono styled sleeve
147
Production patterns
150
Seam allowances
151
Seam corners
153
Hems
154
Facings
155
Approval of the sample garment and graded patterns
157
Pattern modification for garment size and fit
159
Shoulder slant
162
Length of the upper and lower torso
164
Stance
165
Variations in posture
166
Skirt waist levels
169
Neck width
171
Sleeve pitch
172
Variation in body size and contour
173
Larger adjustment to the waist size
174
Prominences of the upper torso
175
Shoulder blade prominence
176
Prominences of the lower torso
177
Straight skirt modification for a flatter seat
179
Straight skirt modification for hip and thigh prominences
180
Trouser modification for seat prominence
182
Trouser modification for hip and thigh prominences
183
Trouser modification for stomach prominence
184
CAD technology for customisation
186
Configuration and alteration points
187
Madetomeasure garment alteration
190
The madetomeasure CAD interface
191
Marker making using the batch process
192
Advanced 3D pattern design systems
193
Computerised marker making systems
197
Markers for striped and check fabrics
198
Optimising markers
199
Computerised fabric spreading and cutting
200
Product data management systems
201
Organisation of design data
202
Form administration
203
References and further reading
205
Index of technical terms
207
Miniaturised block patterns
209
Copyright

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About the author (2009)

Alison Beazley has had extensive experience as a designer and lectures in clothing design and technology. She has written technical articles and produced video media on this subject.

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