Gym Climbing: Maximizing Your Indoor Experience

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The Mountaineers Books, Jan 24, 2005 - Sports & Recreation - 190 pages
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CLICK HERE to download the chapter on "Lead Climbing" from Gym Climbing

* Explains how to get started and advance your skills at the local climbing gym
* Author is a pioneering instructor and gym climbing course developer
* Key exercises reinforce fundamental skills, illustrated in sequential photos

Gym climbing has evolved into a sport in its own right and Matt Burbach has been there to spur it on. He established, developed, and directed the Indoor Climbing School of Earth Treks Climbing Center in Maryland, at the time the largest climbing gym on the east coast. Now he presents the same techniques and training exercises honed by coaching hundreds of climbers.

Burbach covers all aspects of indoor rock climbing in detail, including what to look for in a gym, analysis of equipment and how it works, proper top-rope systems management, and movement technique. More advanced indoor climbers will appreciate chapters on topics such as indoor leading, performance, competition climbing, and bouldering. For outdoor rock climbers now training in gyms, this guide aids the "reverse" transition from climbing on real rock to pulling on plastic. Throughout, Burbach not only demonstrates the proper techniques and skills, but goes one step further to explain why those practices are better.

 

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Contents

Acknowledgments
7
Introduction
8
CHAPTER 1
13
Indoor Climbing
14
History of Climbing Gyms
16
What to Expect
21
Equipment
26
The Essential Items
28
Dynamic Movement
92
Sequencing
100
Lead Climbing
104
Lead Climbing Skills and Techniques
106
Lead Belaying
119
Putting the System Together
127
Cleaning a Lead Route
129
Bouldering
132

Gear Consideration
41
CHAPTER 3
45
Toprope Climbing
46
Tying in
48
Belaying
51
Putting the System Together
58
Commands
59
Autobelay Systems
61
Movement Technique
66
Weight Shifting
68
Footwork
74
Body Positioning
81
Hand Grips
82
Switching hands and Feet
86
Crossing Through
90
The Vscale
133
Following a Boulder Problem
134
Getting Started
137
Bouldering Technique
138
Performance
148
Flexibility and Stretching
151
Muscular Strength and Endurance
156
Body Composition
165
Scheduling and Periodization
169
Competitions
177
Staying Healthy
180
Glossary
182
Index
188
Copyright

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About the author (2005)

MATT BURBACH has been a climbing instructor since 1995. He was the founding editor of Urban Climber Magazine, and his writings have been published in Gripped and Climbing. He established, developed, and directed the indoor climbing school at Earth Treks' Climbing Centers in Maryland, the largest climbing gyms on the east coast. Matt has worked in the climbing industry as an instructor, competitor, tech rep, visual merchandiser, and lead organizer of the Petzl, Roc Comp and Smackdown competitions. He is a graduate University of Maryland's College of Health and Human Performance and continues to coach climbers on an individual basis. Matt currently lives in New York City.

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