Jewelry Making and Design: An Illustrated Text Book for Teachers, Students of Design, and Craft Workers in Jewelry

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Metal crafts publishing Company, 1917 - Decoration and ornament - 459 pages
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User Review  - BookHunterEG - Borders

This book offers detailed information about precious stones (diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, etc.) An explanation of color, clarity, and weight is provided, which will allow the reader to ... Read full review

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A Classic Text for Metalsmiths Teaching Themselves
This is a great early 20th c work on design and fabrication for jewelers.From lapidary technique to design and manufacture using hand tools this
should be one of the first early-modern ( after the invention of the pendant motor) D.I.Y. learners should download. It is illustrated, fairly complete( lacking only trendy metalsmithing techniques like mokume-gane,and the use of Japanese patinas!) and is not a beading lesson ( thankfully!) nor will it tell you that wrapping a wire around a crystal is making jewelry. It is for serious designers, and metalsmiths needing guidance in rendering & all steps of making a one off piece start to finish with items readily available from any vendor.I believe it can be had in print ( Dover books ?) but you may download it, print it out and have a far larger copy to hold and turn to if tactile experience helps you comprehend the instruction,.Equally you can refer to it,re-read it over and over and without having to plug something in to accomplish that. Or you can then search for a work on bookbinding if you are the hobbyist-of-the-month type. Nevertheless, it is a great book even with dated design & tooling terminology. 

Contents

brooches Pierced without Stones
49
Pierced Brooches
54
Brooches with Stones
59
Designs for Circular Brooches
61
cut
63
64
65
23 iad block
67
a g tools
69
Shen
70
Setting the stone
71
Drilled Brooches
72
Brooches with Wire Edges
73
Pierced Brooches
74
Brooches with shot
75
Brooches Carved and Ornaments Applied
77
Carved Brooches
78
Brooches with applied decoration
79
Brooches
80
Brooches miscellaneous
83
Brooches made of Wire
86
Wire Brooches
88
Brooches in repoussd
89
Problems in wire bending
91
Circular Brooches in Wire
93
Brooches made up of natural elements
95
45 A Layout of design for circular brooch
96
N Brooches Chased and in Repouss
97
Pitch Pot
98
46F Chasing
99
Chased Brooches
100
Pierced Brooch with stones
101
Pierced Brooch with stones set
102
The Hat Pin
103
Hat Pin chased
107
Hat Pin Head on pitch block
108
Scarf Pin
109
6 Scarf Pins miscellaneous HI 58 Scarf Pin set with scarab
113
Pendant
118
Pendant
119
Pendants
122
Wire Pendants
124
Wire Pendants
126
Designs for Wire Pendants
127
Wire Pendant set with chrysacola
128
Wire Pendant
130
Wire Pendant set with garnets and pearls
132
Wire Pendant and chain
134
Details of pendant
135
Pendant with leaves and twisted wire
136
Pendants miscellaneous
137
Pendants miscellaneous
138
Pendant and chain units chased
139
Pendant on pitch i39 78 Pendant and units sawed to outline
140
Finger Ring
142
Pierced rings
146
Wire Ring
147
Wire Ring with leaves and shot
149
Rings miscellaneous
152
Carved Rings 1 S3 86A Rings miscellaneous
154
Rings miscellaneous
155
Belcher Setting cutting seat
156
Belcher Setting trying the stone
157
setting the stone first step
158
filing the prongs
159
Tiffany Setting
160
Gypsy Setting q 101 Gypsy Setting details i62 102 Gypsy Setting details
161
FIGURE PAGE 103 Gypsy Setting finishing top
163
Cuff Links and Cuff Buttons
165
Fobs and Chains
169
Seal Fobs
173
Fob set with chrysacola
174
Muff chain set with turquoise
176
Chain made of wire units
178
Neck chain with garnets
179
Enameling
181
Enameled Jewelry
182
Grinding enamel
185
Porcelain mortar and pestle
186
Pendants in Wire 131
188
Charging enamel
190
Enameled Fob
192
Enameled Bracelet
194
Set of Enamels 12 colors
195
Stoning enamel
196
Modeling and Casting
198
Scroll modeled
199
Modeling and Casts
200
Scroll second step
201
Scroll third step
202
Casting preparing the mould
204
Casting pouring
205
Casting separating the mould
206
Casting trimming the mould
207
Touching up cast
208
Cuttle Fish casting
210
Lifting pattern from cuttle fish
211
Opening for metal
212
Cuttle Fish casting rings
213
Hub and Die Cutting
214
Hub
215
Method of laying out and cutting hubs
217
Hubs and Dies
219
Types of Dies
222
Hub and Die of ring
224
FIGURE PAGE 148A Droppress
226
Die Ball
230
Chisels
231
Equipment
234
Flat Roll
249
Polishing Head
250
Screw Press Kick Press
251
Pickle Tank
252
Coloring Outfit
253
Electric Drill
254
Jewelry Design
255
CHAPTER PAGE XXI Introduction to Jewelry Design
257
Jewelry Drawing
259
A B Copies from Japanese SwordGuards
260
Copy of MetalPlate
262
PLATE PAGE LVI Copy of DoorKnocker
263
Nature Drawing
265
Flower Spray
266
LYIIA Study of Apple Blossoms LVI II Bud Forms
269
Bud Sections
270
Sections of Seed Pods
271
PLATE PAGE LXIII Leaf Outlines
272
Studies from Peacock
273
Shells
274
Butterfly and Fi1
276
go Japanese Crests
277
Japanese SwordGuard Cast Escutcheon
278
Grill
279
Saracenic Ornament
280
IXVI Arabic DoorKnockers
281
Scrap 10k
282
Copy Pendant from Deutsche Goldschmicde Zeitung
284
LXVIA Steps in Tracing
285
Historic Ornament
286
Rendering from Copies
287
Historic Rings
288
Historic Ornament
290
Hungarian Necklace
291
Historic Ornament
292
Principles of Jewelry Design
293
Designs Derived from Nature
295
Brooches in Wire
298
Brooches in Wire
300
Circular Brooches
302
Jewelry
304
The Beginning of Design Variations
305
Variations of Bird Design
308
Variations of Gothic Motive
309
Variations 31i LXX IX Variations
310
Structural Elements of the Circle
315
Structural Elements of Circle
316
The Evolution of Design
319
Geometric Designs
322
Geometric Constructions
324
Geometric Constructions
325
Geometric Constructions
326
Geometric Constructions
327
Arrangements of Circles
328
Outlines on which Jewelry is based
329
The First Problems in Design
330
Rendering in Pencil
336
Copies from Photographs
337
Method of Rendering
341
Rendering in Two Values
344
Rendering from Photograph on Gray Paper
346
Rendering in Four Values on Gray Paper
347
Rendering in Four Values on Gray Paper
348
Rendering in Color Many Values XCIX Rendering Stones
352
Designs showing Vital Curves
358
Renaissance Iron Ornament
361
Designs derived from Verbena
364
Suggestive Forms from Beetle
367
Study of Bachelors Button
368
Idea derived from Hollyhock
370
The Bunchbcrry in Design
371
Designs derived from Insect
374
Gold Pendant set with Turquoise and Pearl Drop CIX Photograph of MothMullen Spray
378
MothMullen in Design
380
Designs derived from MothMulle
382
Designs derived from SnowCrysta CXIII SnowCrystal Patterns
384
Sea Horse
388
Hat Pin with Sea Horse Motive
390
Designs derived from Sea Horse
393
CXIVA Designs derived from Sea Horse
395
Butterflies
396
Collection of Butterflies
397
Method of Designing from Butterfly
399
Method of Designing from Butterfly
400
Studies from Butterfly 4CI CNN Designs derived from Butterfly
402
Clasps
408
CXX1 Brooches in Gold and Enamel CXXII Buckles Clasps Bar Pins 4
411
Wire Pendants
413
Brooch and Pendant in Gold CXXVI Structural Elements in Pendants
414
Pendant Designs 41
420
Pendants in Platinum 41s CXXIX Designs for Seal Fobs
425
Fob in Enamel 4+ CXXXII Hat Pin Designs
426
The Cuff Link and Cuff Button
430
Cuff Links for Enamel 43i CXXXV Cuff Links for Enamel
434
Ring Designs
436
Scarf Pin
438
Designs in Platinum CXXXVIII Scarf Pin Designs
439
Scarf Pins
440
Bead arrangement in Chains
442
Chain Designs
443
Chains and Beads
444
Chain Designs
446
Pendant Connections
448
Museum Sketches
453
Museum Sketches
454
Museum Sketches
455
Equipment for Drawing and Design
459
Copyright

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Page 15 - Errors, like straws, upon the surface flow; He who would search for pearls must dive below.
Page 32 - C., as a means of stating the proportion of pure gold contained in. any alloy of gold with other metals. Thus, the gold of our coinage and of wedding-rings, which contains ff of pure gold, is called "22 carats fine,
Page 31 - ... wire can be drawn from it finer than a human hair and when pure it is the brightest of all metals. It is not possible to say at what date gold and silver, the two precious metals, were first worked into ornaments or used as coin or other circulating medium. In the Book of Genesis we read that Abraham when he went out of Egypt was very rich, not only in cattle but in silver and gold ; and golden earrings and bracelets are spoken of in the twenty-fourth chapter. We believe that no coined gold or...
Page 43 - ... readiness for use of silver. Most of the ores in which silver occurs are difficult to reduce, or separate into their parts, and it is therefore, says the Britannica, safe to regard silver as the last of the three great coining metals which come into use. Pure silver has a beautiful white color and luster. It is almost as plastic as pure gold, and, like it, very soft. It ranks next to gold in being proof against the action of caustic alkali lyes. It is too soft to make durable coins without an...
Page 286 - I may have to speak of the manner in which you must learn of Nature. As to the second, I do not think that any man but one of the highest genius, could do anything in these days without much study of ancient art, and even he would be much hindered if he lacked it.
Page 185 - ... been fixed in its place by fusion. Enamel is in fact glass composed of metallic oxides to which certain fixed fusible salts have been added under heat sufficient to affect the surface to which the paste is to be permanently united. The metallic oxides give the required colours, and as these colours are liable to change under various degrees of temperature, great skill and patience are necessary to determine the exact degree, and the time also of exposure which will ensure the hue, and no other,...
Page xviii - The materials needed for the construction of the Tabernacle were provided by the people themselves, who freely offered of the wealth they had brought from Egypt. Tradition also preserved the names of the artificers who superintended the work, Bezalel of the tribe of Judah, and Oholiab of the tribe of Dan. At length the appointed sign for departure from Sinai was given : after a year's sojourn before the Mount ^ ^^ the cloud was taken up from over the tabernacle resumed, of the testimony; in regular...
Page 45 - England, a duplicate of the original standard fixed by the commission of 1 758, and reasserted by the commission of 1838. It is a bronze weight of 5,760 grains Troy. It is kept in a strong safe at the United States Mint, in Philadelphia. The President appoints an assay commission, whose members meet at Philadelphia annually, upon the second Wednesday in February, open the safe, and compare the copies, or the working weights, with the original upon the most delicately poised balances. Working standards...
Page 45 - They adjusted their brazen masses and iron rings to a fixed weight." In 1266, it was enacted — 51 Edward III. — "That an English penny, called a sterling round, and without clipping, shall weigh thirty-two wheat-corns from the middle of the ear; twenty pence to make one ounce, twelve ounces one pound, eight pounds one gallon of wine, and eight gallons of wine one London bushel.
Page 32 - Pure silver has a brilliant white color and is the whitest of all metals; none surpasses it in lustre, and in hardness it ranges between pure gold and pure copper. It is more fusible than copper or gold, melting at. a bright red heat or at 1873 F.

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