Market À la Mode: Fashion, Commodity, and Gender in the Tatler and the Spectator
In Market a la Mode, Erin Mackie examines the role that two periodicals played in the growth of fashion and how they influenced their readers. She traces the commercial context in which The Tatler and The Spectator operated, focusing on the processes of commodification, fetishization, and revisions of gender identity. By championing "natural" fashion against the hoop-petticoat, domesticated women against the sophisticated woman of the world, the polite and aestheticised imagination against the illusions of fancy and enthusiasm, and the decency of bourgeois against the depravity of aristocratic taste, The Tatler and The Spectator advanced modern standards of British culture. Mackie's study makes clear that fashion publications, far from being commentaries on passing trends, assumed a leading role in defining women's legitimate sphere of activities as well as in the development of commerce as recreation.
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Addison and Steele Addison's and Steele's aesthetic aestheticized Alexander Pope allegory arena beau beauty becomes Bickerstaff body bourgeois public sphere capitalism character coffeehouse commercial commodity commodity fetish consumer consumption contemporary Crackenthorpe cultural criticism Defoe desire discourse display distinction domestic dress Dunciad early eighteenth early modern economic effeminacy eighteenth century emergence England English essay ethical fancy fantasy fash fashion female feminine feminized fetish forms gaze gender homosexual hoop hoop-petticoat human Ibid ideal identity ideology imagination institutions J. H. Plumb Jonathan Swift kind Lady Credit libertine literary literature London male masculine Michael McKeon mode modish museum Nancy Fraser nature objects opera Pict pleasures political popular Press pretty fellow production rake rational realm reform regulation reification relation repository satire sense sexual difference social society Spectator Spectator's standards status style stylistic taste Tatler Terry Eagleton things tion trade Trumbach types Univ woman women