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Patterns in the Sand?
A J Bowen
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analysis ASCE bar crest bathymetry Battjes beach profile bedload behaviour bottom boundary layer Boussinesq equations breaker breaking waves breakwater calculated coast Coastal Engineering coefficient components computed cross-shore Delft direction dissipation effects equation erosion evolution experiments field flow flux fraction frequency gradient grain horizontal HR Wallingford hydraulic hydrodynamic images incident wave interaction linear longshore current longshore transport Lubiatowo maximum mean measured method morphodynamic morphological nearshore nonlinear nourishment numerical model observed offshore onshore outer bar parameters peak predicted Proc processes region rip current roller energy sand scale seaward sediment concentration sediment transport sensors shear instabilities shear stress shoaling shore shoreline shows simulation slope spatial spectral storm structure surf zone surface elevation suspended load suspended sediment swash zone tidal tide transport rate turbulence values variability variation velocity vertical vortex water depth water level wave breaking wave conditions wave energy wave period