Wanda Rutkiewicz: A Caravan of Dreams"Wanda Rutkiewicz was the finest woman alpinist in the world, a charismatic person and a stronger, more accomplished climber than many men. She climbed with twenty expeditions spread over 22 years. But on 12 May 1992 she vanished without trace at 8300 metres while attempting to add Kanchenjunga to the eight 8000-metre peaks she had already climbed. Even now, so long after the event, her friends find it hard to believe that she will not be returning from that last climb. This book does not answer all the questions about Wanda. She never answered them herself and I was determined not to fictionalise. She always hoped that people who wrote about her would write what she said, not what they thought. Even when I am recording events that we shared, I have tried to distinguish unequivocally between her perspective and my own." -- taken from the foreword by Gertrude Reinisch. |
Contents
Foreword | 11 |
Adventure on the east buttress of the Trollryggen | 25 |
Winter on the north wall of the Matterhorn | 38 |
Copyright | |
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Common terms and phrases
Abruzzi Ridge achieve adventure alpine altitude Anna Annapurna ascent attempt Austrian avalanche Baltoro base camp Broad Peak buttress Carlos Cerro Torre Cho Oyu climbing crampons crevasse dangerous Dear Marion death descent Dhaulagiri dition Dobroslawa dream Eiger equipment Everest expe expedition led feel felt film fixed ropes friends Gasherbrum Gasherbrum II glacier Halina Herrligkoffer Hidden Peak high camps Himalaya ice-fall Japanese Jerzy Kukuczka join Junko Tabei Kanchenjunga Karakorum knew Krystyna Kurt Liliane lives Makalu Marek Marion Feik metres Michel moun mountain Nanga Parbat Nepal never night north face oxygen Pakistani Palmowska partner Piotr Poland Poles Polish expedition porters problems radio reached the summit Reinhold Messner rock route rucksack Sherpas Shisha Pangma sleeping slopes snow south face success tain tent Tibetan tion track wait Wanda Rutkiewicz weather Wielicki wind woman women climbers women's expedition