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Waves in Shallow Water
Tides and Seiches
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alongshore average basin beach face berm boat bottom breakers breaking waves breakwater bulge California caused changes cliff coast coastal continental shelf created currents deep water depth direction Dukw earth effect engineer erosion feet high flow foot force groins harbor Hilo hundred feet inches island knots Krakatoa land large waves littoral littoral drift longshore transport low tide measured miles moon observed ocean Oceanography orbit Pacific period pressure record refraction rip current ripple tank ripples rock sand grains sea level sea surface seaward seiching seismic sea waves shallow water ship shore side sine waves slope small waves speed storm waves surf zone surfboard surge swash swell tank tidal tide gauge tion trough tsunami underwater uprush velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation wave passes wave-makers waves break wind