Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface, Issue 34This book deals with the formation of waves that travel on the surface between ocean and atmosphere. |
Contents
WIND WAVES | 42 |
WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER | 66 |
TIDES AND SEICHES | 82 |
Copyright | |
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alongshore average Bascom basin beach face berm boat bottom breakers breaking waves breakwater bulge California caused changes cliff coast coastal continental shelf created currents deep water depth direction Dukw earth effect engineer erosion feet high flow force Fort Ord George Airy groins harbor Hilo hundred feet island jetties knots Krakatoa land large waves littoral littoral drift low tide measured miles milw moon motion observed ocean Oceanography orbit Pacific period pressure record refraction rip current ripple tank ripples rock sea level sea surface seaward seiching seismic sea waves shallow water ship shore shoreline side slope small waves structure surf zone surfboard surge swash swell tank tetrapod tidal tide gauge tion trough tsunami underwater uprush velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation wave passes wave-makers waves break wind