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afternoon ahead altitude avalanche Bahu Balephi base camp began big white peak boulders camp-site Chhepala climbers climbing clouds cold crampons crest crevasse cross decided Dorje Lakpa glacier Droma Everest expedition farther feet felt found ourselves frontier ridge glissaded gorge grin gully hand Himalaya ice-axe ice-fall Indrawati Jugal Himal Kathmandu kukris Kusung Langtang loads looked memsahib Mingma mist Monica monsoon moraine morning mountains Murari Nauling Lekh Nawalpur Nepal night Nima Lama Nosem Khola once Panch Pokhari party path photographs Phurbi Chyachu Phurbi Chyachumbu Pomba Serebu porters Pulmutang Raymond Lambert reached realised rhododendron river rock rope round route rucksacks Sankhu seemed seracs shouted side sight sirdar sleeping-bags slopes snow soon steep steps stopped summit Temba Tempa Tempathang Sherpas tent thought Tibet told took tracks turned valley village W. H. Murray wait yeti