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amount of fabric apron armhole back seam baste-stitch bias Bishop method blouse bodice front bust button buttonhole center back center front Chapter clean-finish cloth coat collar crosswise grain curve dart dress drum ease extra Figure problem Final-press Fitting problem front and back front facings garment grain perfection gusset inch from edge inches wide interfacing key grain line knit learned length lengthwise grain line of stitching lockstitching lower edge machine stitching marking matching neck edge neck facing neckline needle notch overblouse pattern piece photograph pink pinking shears placket plaid pleat pocket piece Press open seam presser foot pull raw edges right side running stitch seam allowance seamline selvage sewing sewn shoulder line shoulder seams shown side seams skirt front staystitching stitching line straight strip tailored tape technique thread tissue topstitch tracing paper Trim seam tuck turn underarm underlining underside understitching V4 inch waistline whipstitch width zipper