Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1903-1990
The motivation for writing this book is to dispel the myth of Denali as a cakewalk, and to help climbers prepare adequately for polar, high-altitude survival. By learning from the past, climbers can avoid similar problems; this is the goal of Surviving Denali. Waterman presents an in-depth analysis of altitude medical problems, frostbite, avalanche and fall injuries, and deaths on the mountain in order to point out the mistakes that may have been made and methods that might have been used to prevent them.
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accident acclimatization Alaska altitude illness altitude sickness American Alpine American Alpine Journal ARMY ascent avalanche bivouac boots breathing Brian Okonek BROKEN carbon monoxide poisoning carried Cassin Ridge clients climbers cold condition couloir Covington crampons crevasse falls days later death Decadron DEHYDRATION Denali Pass descended Diamox drug edema expedition feet fell fingers fixed line fixed ropes flown frostbite frostbitten HAPE Harper Glacier headaches helicopter HELICOPTER RECOVERED high-altitude ice axes injuries JONATHAN WATERMAN June Kahiltna Glacier medical camp morning Mount McKinley mountain sickness Muldrow Glacier National Park Service night Okonek overboots oxygen P.O. Box pack party Peter Hackett pilot prevent radio rappelling reached the summit Ruth Glacier self-arrest Simon skis slope snow cave solo South Buttress South Face storm stove summit day symptoms Talkeetna TALKEETNA AIR TAXI Tejas temperature tent toes unroped vapor barrier victims walk weather West Buttress route West Rib winds