Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writings

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Patrick J. Moser
University of Hawaii Press, 2008 - Fiction - 338 pages
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A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long wooden boards into the ocean, modern surfers have continued this practice, which has recently been transformed into a global industry. Pacific Passages brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of Polynesian and Western perspectives on the history and culture of a sport currently enjoyed by millions of people around the world. The stories begin with Hawaiian legends and chants and are followed by the journals of explorers; the travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the contemporary observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis.

Readers follow the historical transformation of surfing s image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to Western accounts of horror and exoticism in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity in pre-World-War II California and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. They explore the sport s most recent trends by writers and cultural critics, whose insights into technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism reveal how surfing impacts some of today s most pressing social concerns.

Aided by informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages provide insight into the values and ideals of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each has altered and been altered by surfing and how the sport itself has shown an amazing ability throughout the centuries to survive, adapt, and prosper.

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Contents

III
1
IV
15
V
19
VI
23
VII
26
VIII
29
IX
32
X
34
XLIV
120
XLV
123
XLVI
125
XLVII
133
XLVIII
137
XLIX
147
L
151
LI
153

XI
42
XII
44
XIII
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XIV
49
XV
55
XVI
61
XVII
63
XVIII
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XIX
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XX
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XXI
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XXII
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XXIII
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XXIV
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XXV
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XXVI
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XXVII
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XXVIII
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XXIX
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XXX
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XXXI
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XXXII
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XXXIII
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XXXIV
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XXXV
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XXXVI
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XXXVII
104
XXXVIII
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XXXIX
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XL
112
XLI
115
XLII
117
XLIII
118
LII
155
LIII
161
LIV
164
LV
171
LVI
175
LVII
180
LVIII
191
LIX
196
LX
201
LXI
208
LXII
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LXIII
218
LXIV
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LXV
225
LXVI
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LXVII
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LXVIII
247
LXIX
258
LXX
269
LXXI
281
LXXII
285
LXXIII
289
LXXIV
290
LXXV
292
LXXVI
294
LXXVII
296
LXXVIII
298
LXXIX
303
LXXX
307
LXXXI
311
LXXXII
319
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About the author (2008)

Patrick Moser is the editor of Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing (University of Hawai'i Press, 2008). He collaborated with Shaun Tomson on Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding through Life and has written articles for The Surfer's Journal and Surfer. He currently teaches writing and French language at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri where he also offers a course on the history and culture of surfing.

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