Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writings
Patrick J. Moser
University of Hawaii Press, 2008 - Fiction - 338 pages
A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long boards into the ocean, modern wave riders continued the practice and surfing as we know it was born. Pacific Passages brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of perspectives on the history and culture of a sport that has recently been transformed into a global industry. Included are Hawaiian legends and chants, journals of the first Western explorers to the South Pacific, and travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London. Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis offer contemporary observations on a cultural phenomenon that extends from the beaches of Tahiti to the financial markets of Wall Street. Pacific Passages allows readers to trace the historical transformation of surfing's image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to the first Western accounts of an exotic amusement that "presented nothing but Horror & Destruction" to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. Writers and cultural critics explore the sport's most recent trends, revealing how surfing impacts some of today's most pressing social concerns: technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism.
What people are saying - Write a review
We haven't found any reviews in the usual places.
amusement Australian beach beachboys beautiful big-wave billow bottom boys break breaker California canoe chants chapter chiefess chiefs Club contest Cook’s coral crest diving Dora Duke Kahanamoku Dyke face feet foam Freeth George Freeth Gidget guys Hana Hawaii Hawaiian Hawaiian Mythology he‘e head Honolulu hula Jack Kaahumanu Kaua‘i Kelea kids king Laird Laird Hamilton land legends Lilia lineup living look Malibu Maui Mickey Miki mile missionaries Molokai morning nalu natives never Ni‘ihau O‘ahu Oahu ocean one’s Outrigger Pacific paddle papa Polynesian popular Pump House Gang reef rider riding waves rode rolled says shark shore shoreward skill sport standing surf culture surf riding surfboard surfer girls Surfer magazine surfing’s surfriding swell swimmer swimming Tahiti there’s Theresa thing tion tow-in tow-in surfing traditional turned voyage Waikiki Waimea watching women yards