planted two or three weeks ago are given air freely when weather permits. We do not spread the mats at night except when it is chilly, in order to get the plants as hardy as possible without injuring them or impeding their growth.

The batch of Cauliflowers planted among the Carrots are showing bud. They will require all the water we can give them now. The watering of Cauliflowers before they show bud must be done very carefully, as they are liable to rot off if the water is excessive, and they will show bud too early if kept too dry. The batch of Cauliflowers which was planted among the Lettuces under the lights, and the batch planted directly outside, are both doing well. We have

CARDCHRON

since the end of February. They were the same sorts of plants as those planted under the cloches. The Celery sown at the beginning of April, to follow the Cauliflowers, are pricked off 3 inches apart on an old manure bed. They will require light but frequent waterings till they are well established in their present quarter. Around Paris, where Leeks have a ready sale, growers sow at the present time, in well-prepared beds, seeds of "Long of Paris." They are planted in July in the beds where Carrots and Cauliflowers were grown, 5 inches apart. This batch will be ready for the market in September if freely watered and well cultivated. Paul Aquatias, Mayland, May 28.

sown a batch which will be planted among the Melons, four per light at the end of June onwards till August. Though we like the Cauliflower "Driancourt" as a good all-round sort; we have sown some "Lenormand " which succeeds well through the summer and becomes an enormous size.

The Endive to follow the Cauliflowers among the Carrots have been through the ground these last four days, and receive plenty of air at the present time.

The Cos Lettuces grown under the cloches have all been sent to market, the third batch was ready as soon as the second was gone. We have another batch ready, grown entirely outside

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

"LONDON PARKS AND GARDENS."

FEW persons who live in London realise the extent of the open spaces which help to relieve the monotony of bricks and mortar, and serve both as lungs to the city and as recreation grounds for its inhabitants. The love of gardening is comparatively a modern one, at least, amongst the majority of the population, and perhaps it is, in part at least, traceable to the ever-growing congestion of the large towns, with

London Parks and Gardens, by the Hon. Mrs. Evelyn Cecil (Alicia Amherst), with illustrations by Lady Victoria Manners. London: Archibald Constable & Co., Ltd. 1907.

their teeming populations. At any rate, it is true that those whose visits to the country are few and far between are not the least appreciative of the beauties of woodland and green fields. Fortunately there are always those who enjoy a fair share of this world's goods, who also realise the attraction of rural surroundings, even in the heart of a town. The words of the old poet "Laudaturque domus longos quae prospicit agros," are as true to-day as they were two thousand years ago; but for crowded urban populations, green spaces are not merely a luxury, they have become a necessity. The story of these open spaces within that portion of London which is administered by the London County Council is told by Mrs. Evelyn Cecil in a most delightful volume. Even were the subject itself less interesting than it actually is, the book would be well worth reading. The authoress, who is a well-known lover of gardens, has invested her theme with a charm that springs partly from her own familiarity with the places she is describing, but is also enhanced by the literary skill with which she has brought together so much that is of historical interest. Many of the green oases of London have been places of note in the past, and some of them, as, for example, Hyde Park, have played their part in the stormy scenes of the 17th century. Others, again, like the Chelsea Physic Garden, have remained as monuments to the enlightened views of prominent men; whilst still others bear witness to the intelligent foresight of private or public enterprise. It is not generally recognised that there are many trees and shrubs other than those familiar to everyone, which can be grown successfully even in London, and the list given at the end of the volume deserves to be studied by those whose business it is to lay out or to conserve the open spaces of the metropolis. On the whole, the evergreens are apt to be depressing. Their mantle of grime deprives them of attractiveness, even if it did not also injure their health, and it is seen, on glancing at the list, how Conifers have had to be abandoned in the metropolitan area. Even in the outer suburbs these trees are suffering, and every year, unluckily, their condition grows steadily worse. In former times they flourished in some districts. Thus the four original Cedars of Lebanon in the Physic Garden were objects of interest till they, one after another, succumbed to the attack of the smoke fiend.

The volume contains an excellent bibliography, whilst the illustrations, chiefly in colour, by Lady Victoria Manners, lend additional attractiveness to a well-planned and wellexecuted work.

* ROSE PESTS.

THERE are so many serious pests common to Roses, that a recent publication upon the subject, entitled The Enemies of the Rose, and issued by the National Rose Society, will be a great boon to cultivators, whether or not they are members of the Society. The notes upon the fungus diseases and preventive measures are contributed by Mr. George Massee, V.M.H., F.L.S., and those upon the insects by Mr. Fred. V. Theobald, M.A. The work is illustrated by Miss C. M. Beard. The illustrations include coloured plates of Rose-mildew, Rose-rust or Orange fungus, black spot, Rose-leaf scorch, several species of cockchafer, the slugworm, buff. tip moth, winter moth, vapourer moth, Rose Emphytus (Emphytus cinctus), also species of moth, leaf-miner, frog-hopper, leaf-rolling sawfly, and other pests. Having given the names of the contributors, it is scarcely necessary to say that the directions for combating the various pests and diseases may be thoroughly relied upon. The book is edited by Mr. Edward Mawley, the hon. secretary of the National Rose Society, and may be obtained by non-members of the Society through a member on payment of 2s. 6d.

The Enemies of the Rose. By George Massee, V.M.H., F.L.S., and Fred. V. Theobald, M.A. Illustrated by Miss C. M. Beard. Published by the National Rose Society.

66

PANSIES AND VIOLETS.

WE have here, as stated by the author on the title page, a handbook dealing with the culti vation and propagation of the show, fancy, and tufted Pansy or Viola for garden decoration and exhibition; the Violetta or miniature-flowered Pansy, mountain and sweet-scented Violets, including selections of varieties for all sorts of purposes." Pansies and Violets have been favourite garden plants in British gar. dens for several hundred years, and are more highly valued in the present day than ever, as being the most fragrant and beautiful of plants for the decoration of our gardens. Although the Pansy will succeed in smoky, crowded towns, it is only to be seen at its best in the pure air of the country. The Violet, on the contrary, can only be grown with success in the country, for it dwindles and dies when its culti

art of propagation by cuttings in spring and summer is fully described, and pictorial examples of cuttings are given. Autumnal propagation for planting out in the following spring is touched upon, and special advice is given in regard to early propagation in the northern parts of the country where Pansies and Violas succeed best. The remarks on grouping Violas in beds and borders, using them as carpeting for beds of Roses and Carnations, and in window boxes, make informing reading; as do those on soil preparation, manuring, together with those on the summer and winter treatment of the plants. The raising of plants from seed by those who may not be able to purchase named varieties is succinctly described. Violettas, a race that originated by a cross effected by the late Dr. Ch. Stuart, M.D., of Chirnside, Berwickshire, between Viola cor

towards the centre to the deepest tinge of rosered. As it was impossible for me to make out to what species our plants belonged, I sent some flowers to the Royal Botanic Garden and Museum in Dahlem. According to them the plant seems to be a rose-coloured variety of H. venustus, Blume.

This species was figured in 1891 in Bot. Mag., t. 7183, with cream-coloured flowers. I have no specimens to compare, but the description seems to agree well with our plant. Certainly if it is not the Hibiscus venustus it is a very close ally. The stems of our plant are now about 2 inches high. The young shoots are green and densely covered with stellate and single glandular hairs. Some of these, especially along the petioles, are stiff and brittle and easily hurt one's hand. The petioles are robust and the lower leaves large and quite similar to those

vation is essayed in the town garden. There are numbers of books dealing with the history and plant lore of the subject, and with the cultivation of Pansies and Violets, but those are chiefly of interest to the specialist than to the owner of small gardens. The author of this work is a practised cultivator and exhibitor of these flowers, well acquainted with the requirements of the small grower, as he proves by the varied information afforded in his book. The editor has personally contributed the chapters on the history and botany of the Pansy and Violet, likewise the list of species of Mountain Violets, together with remarks on the foes of Pansies and Violets. These chapters will be found very interesting and enlightening to the reader. The

By D. B. Crane. Edited by T. W. Sanders, F.L.S. Illustrated. London: The Office of "Amateur Gardening," 148 and 149, Aldersgate Street, E.C. 1s. net.

nuta and Pansy Blue King, have a chapter to themselves. They are fascinating plants. The culture of Violets in the open air and in cold frames and pots is fully described, and the remarks on varieties are valuable.

NOTES FROM LA MORTOLA.

HIBISCUS VENUSTUS. THROUGH the kindness of Mr. F. C. Baker, now at the Museo Goldi in Parana, I received some years ago seeds of a Hibiscus from Santiago de las Vegas, in the Island of Cuba. From these seeds we have now two shrubs growing in this garden, which in size and foliage somewhat resemble the old-fashioned Sparmannia africana. They began to flower for the first time at the end of last January. The petals were of a very delicate rose colour, which darkened down

described in the Botanical Magazine. The upper ones get gradually smaller. The flowers come singly out of the axils of the highest leaves, about three to six on each shoot. The form of the calyx and epicalyx and, of course, of the whole flower is like the figure and description except for the colour. Besides, the flowers of our plant did not open as much as those shown on the plate, but this may be due to the cold period in which the flowers were produced, although they were very beautiful. It is to be seen whether this new shrub will become a favourite in our gardens, as its flowers are likely to be injured by the frost. But where it can be protected during the cold weather it is certain to do justice to its name "venustus." So far no seeds were produced, but cuttings will certainly strike as easy as of other Hibiscus. Alwin Berger.

The Week's Work.

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

By THOMAS LUNT, Gardener to A. STIRLING, Esq.,
Keir, Perthshire, N.B.

Lilium speciosum (lancifolium).—This species and its varieties, if grown in pots, are very useful for decorating the conservatory and dwelling-house in the autumn. Bulbs that were started early will now be ready for receiving a top-dressing, partly filling up the space left in the pot when the bulbs were potted up. The top-dressing may be applied at two or three times, as it is seen that the new stems are producing roots from their base. The compost for such a purpose should consist of leaf-mould two parts, loam one part, and sand one part, with a little manure from a spent mushroom bed, mixing these materials well together before using them. When five or six bulbs are cultivated in a 10-inch pot they form good, bushy plants, - capable of producing a very fine effect. The shoots should be disposed evenly, and for the purpose of training neat stakes should be placed against each growth. In order to obtain wellbalanced growths the pots should be turned round occasionally, in order that each part may receive equal benefit from the sun's rays. When the roots are ramifying in their new soil the plants should be afforded frequent applications of weak liquid manure.

Plumbago rosea.-This plant is a useful subject for supplying a display of flowers during winter and spring. Cuttings should now be inserted in a mixture of loam, leaf-soil and sand, and the pots in which the cuttings are inserted should be placed in a house provided with bottom heat, where they will soon form roots. Place four cuttings in a 4-inch pot, and when they are well rooted, repot them, using recep tacles having a diameter of 7 or 8 inches for their flowering stage. The shoots should be pinched in order to induce the formation of side shoots. Old plants should have the soil shaken from their roots and be repotted into some fresh loam. Established plants are suitable for planting in a small border; the shoots may be trained up the rafters of the house, from which the flowering shoots may be allowed to hang down.

Rehmannia angulata.-Seeds of this plant should now be sown in order to produce a batch of plants for next season's flowering. The same methods of seed-sowing may be adopted as was recommended for Cinerarias. Plants that are now at their flowering stage, having had the central flower spike removed when young, have developed a number of side growths and formed bushy plants. A small stake should be placed in the centre of the plant and the growths looped to this rather loosely. When in flower afford the plants an abundance of weak liquid manure.

Richardias.-R. africana and the variety Little Gem, when flowering is over, should be planted in an unheated frame, by which system they will succeed much better than if allowed to remain in the pots all through the summer. Place in the frame some good rich loam, with which has been mixed leaf-soil and sand, also a quantity of well-rooted manure. When planting, allow sufficient space for each plant to receive a full share of air and sunlight. Shake away the old soil from the roots and shorten some of the latter that are extra long. In planting, press the soil firmly about the roots, for this will permit a good ball of soil to be lifted when the plants are removed in the autumn. Afford a copious watering with tepid water and shade the frames, which must be kept closed for a few days after planting. When the plants are actively growing they are much benefited by doses of weak liquid manure, for Richardia is a very gross feeding plant.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By F. JORDAN, Gardener to The DOWAGER LADY NUNBURNHOLME, Warter Priory, Yorkshire. Freshly-grafted trees.-Successful grafts have made very rapid growth during the past fortnight, and they should be given attention by carefully removing the clay and examining the ties to see that these latter are not injuring the stock or scion. Rebind any that may require it, but make the tie more loose than before. At the same time support the grafts by the use of neat stakes, to prevent them being damaged by wind

or other causes. As the graft continues to make more growth, all the young shoots which appear below the point of grafting should be removed. In cases where no union has taken place, it will be advisable to encourage a strong shoot to grow from the base, which may be budded presently, and so prevent failure this season. Examine any old trees that were headed down before grafting, and gradually remove any shoots which appear on the old stocks as soon as the scions have commenced to grow. Spray any grafts that are still alive but dormant, in order to encourage the buds to start into growth before the weather becomes exceedingly hot.

Summer pruning.-The pleasant change to milder weather will cause the shoots of Peach and Nectarine trees to grow very quickly, and disbudding should, therefore, be brought to a close by the removal of all those shoots that will not be required next season. The matter of summer-pruning will soon claim the attention of the cultivator. This operation requires great care and forethought, in order that the effect of the pruning may be to direct the energies of the trees to the formation of fruit buds, and to the development of this season's crop. In order to be successful, the operator should possess a good knowledge of the different kinds of fruit trees. He should know which have the habit of producing their fruit on spurs and which produce them on growths made in the season immediately preceding that of bearing.

Thinning of fruits.-Peaches will now have arrived at a sufficient size that partial thinning may be carried out. In the first place, remove all those fruits that would be likely to suffer damage from the wall or the wires, also any other badly-placed fruits may be removed before they commence to develop their stones or kernels. Very few surplus fruits need be left upon healthy trees until after the stoning process is finished-for they will not be likely to fall during that process. A fair average crop for a healthy tree to develop is one having one fruit to each square foot of space. But in determin. ing the amount of crop, the habit of the particular variety should be taken into consideration, whether the individual fruits are large or small, and, in addition, the condition of the individual tree should be considered. Young and vigorous trees may be allowed to carry more than others, but even in these cases over-cropping is not to be recommended, as it invariably results in bringing about a period of unfruitfulness. Nectarines may be left a little closer than Peaches, say, one fruit to every 10 inches square. Reserve as many of the young shoots on these trees as there is proper room for, remembering, however, that each shoot requires to be fully exposed to light and air, or it will fail to mature. Carefully train in all the shoots it is decided to retain, and be very careful not to injure the young wood by pressing them closely to the nails or by tying them too tightly. Syringe the trees with clear water on all suitable occasions, commencing at the bottom of the tree first. Syringe them also occasionally with the XL-All insecticide, as this is a useful remedy for red spider and other insects. It is essential that the trees should be perfectly clean at the time when the fruits commence to colour, as when this stage is reached syringing will have to be discontinued.

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

By T. COOMBER, Gardener to LORD LLANGATTOCK, The Hendre, Monmouthshire. Early Peach trees.-When the trees in the earliest house have been cleared of their fruits, the borders should be tested, and if the soil is found to be dry it should be thoroughly watered, applying diluted liquid manure instead "of clear water if the trees appear to be weakly. Replenish the mulching material if this is necessary. Syringe the trees vigorously every day; carefully examine them and cleanly cut away any useless shoots which will be chiefly found amongst those which have carried fruit this year. By giving proper attention to this matter the leaves will afterwards be the better exposed to the sunshine and air, the result being that the shoots and buds will become better matured. Ventilate the house freely by day, and less so during the night. As soon as the shoots have become well hardened, both the back and front ventilators may be left fully open.

Mid-season Peaches.-Houses containing fruits which are now swelling for a second time, or commencing to ripen, should be ventilated freely, and no heat will be required during warm, sunny days, but a little artificial heat may be maintained throughout the night and also during days when the weather is dull or wet. When artificial heat is employed, just a little ventilation should be admitted in order to cause the atmosphere to circulate. Do not allow the roots to suffer from want of moisture, nor neglect to syringe the leaves with soft water. In our own case the spring water is so greatly impregnated with lime that its use, even for a short period, would destroy the good appearance of both the fruit and leaves. Expose each fruit as much as possible to the influence of the sun by tying on one side any leaves that overhang them, and also in cases where it is necessary, by raising the fruits upon smooth pieces of glass. If, however, a few fruits be left on the under sides of the branches, the sup ply will be lengthened, as these will not ripen quite so quickly. Attend daily to the gatherings of the fruits, doing this in the evening if pos sible, and being careful not to let the fruits become quite ripe before they are gathered, otherwise they will not only lose something of their flavour, but also be liable to receive injury during the process of gathering, or whilst being packed for transit.

Late Peaches.-Let the shoots upon trees in the latest houses be carefully trained, cutting out any superfluous ones. Delay the final thinning of the fruits until the formation of the stones is well advanced. Syringe the trees each morning and afternoon, and keep the roots liberally sup plied with water and manure. If mildew should attack either the leaves or fruits, spray them in the evening with a solution of sulphide of potas sium at the strength of one half-ounce dissolved in one gallon of water, or, as an alternative, the trees may be dusted over with flowers of sulphur. The sulphide of potassium is the better remedy, but it will discolour the paint upon the woodwork unless means are taken to protect the paint from the spray. Mildew is sometimes thoughtlessly encouraged by permitting cold draughts, especially when the leaves are young, therefore, do not leave the back and front ventilators widely open at night, especially when there are cold winds. It will, however, be neces sary to ventilate the house liberally during the daytime. Aphides may be easily destroyed by the use of the XL-All vaporiser, or by dusting the affected leaves with tobacco powder. Now that the outside borders have become warmed by sunshine, they should be given a dressing with some approved artificial fertiliser, and afterwards be mulched with half-decayed stable

manure.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. By E. BECKETT, Gardener to the Hon. VICARY GIBBS, Aldenham House, Elstree, Hertfordshire. Mulching. The importance of mulching can hardly be overstated. It is necessary on all kinds of soil and in all localities, but is particularly useful during periods of drought, and, when practicable, should be applied immediately after a heavy rainfall. Many cultivators think that the more retentive the soil the less need there is for a mulch, but this is a mistaken idea, as such soil requires a mulch even more than soil that is of a lighter nature, on account of the expansion and contraction which is certain to occur in heavy soils, for the consequent cracking of the ground is extremely detrimental to the young rootlets. By applying a timely sur. face dressing of suitable material the cracking may be prevented, and there afterwards will be less need for applying water, as the mulch will greatly assist in retaining the moisture the ground already contains. June is generally the best month for applying mulches. For such small-growing crops as Beetroot, Carrots, Onions and similar vegetables, I know of no better material than that obtainable from spent mushroom beds, and if possible it should be finely broken up by passing it through a coarse meshed sieve. Long stable manure is excellent material for placing between the rows of Peas, Beans of all kinds, and Brassica crops, especi ally Cauliflowers, and for globe Artichokes. When nothing better can be obtained to form a mulch, short grass from the lawn, or even leafmould may be applied.

Broad Beans.-Make the final sowing of Broad Windsor in a cool portion of the garden. Plants raised earlier in the season and now flowering should have the points of the growths pinched out immediately a good crop of pods is assured. Should black aphis put in an appearance, syringe the growths with a solution of soft soap or some equally reliable remedy.

Endive. Make a small sowing of both Batavian and the curled-leaved variety, selecting a somewhat shady position for this crop. Afford the plants plenty of water at the roots, or in the absence of this they will quickly run to flower.

Peas. The ordinary sowings of Peas are very late this season. The crops may be forwarded by pinching out the points of the leading growths and by applying liberal quantities of Jiquid manure and clear water at the roots. Continue to make further sowings of such excellent varieties as Autocrat and Masterpiece, both varieties being valuable for yielding supplies late in the autumn. Sow the seeds thinly in trenches, in soil that has been properly prepared by careful cultivation.

Savoys-It frequently happens that plants raised from seeds sown at the end of May prove very valuable in the following spring, as they are better fitted to survive a severe winter than plants raised earlier in the season. Select seeds of small-growing varieties for the present sowing.

Radishes.-Sow seeds in small quantities at intervals of ten days. A good selection of the variety French Breakfast is still one of the most popular, but there are other kinds distinctly attractive and possessing excellent qualities.

Onions-Spring-sown plants that were raised under glass and have since been planted out are now established. They require to have the soil made very firm about the roots by means of the fingers. Apply the Dutch hoe frequently, and dress the surface of the soil with soot each week.

Cabbages.-Both white and red varieties which were raised during the spring may be planted out as fast as they become ready for transplanta

tion.

THE ORCHID HOUSES.

By H. G. ALEXANDER, Orchid Grower to Major C L. HOLFORD, C.V.O., C.I.E., Westonbirt, Gloucestershire. Lalia harpophylla.-This is not a strong-growing species, but nevertheless healthy plants will grow freely. These require a long rest after flowering, in order to better prepare them for growth, otherwise the "leads" become irregular and the flowering is likely to be disappointing. The plants grow best in pots filled two-thirds full with a mixture of potsherds and charcoal for drainage, and above this a compost of Sphagnum-moss and Osmunda and Polypodium fibre in equal parts. Care should be taken to fix the plants firmly and elevate them slightly above the rim of the pot, surfacing the compost with Sphagnum-moss. Potting should be done as soon as the buds begin to swell at the base of the crown, and in most cases, if the plants have been cultivated well, the pots will have to be broken, taking care not to injure the roots that cling to them. These plants, owing to their slender habit, thrive best in a moist atmosphere while growing, and they require plenty of water at the roots, but there must be ample drainage to allow the water to pass quickly away, and a shady position should be selected in the cool intermediate house for them.

Mexican Lalias.-L. albida, L. Gouldiana, L. autumnalis, and its variety alba, are all sunloving plants, which grow best in baskets suspended close to the roof glass of a house where a cool intermediate temperature is maintained. The Mexican Lælias have a great dislike to root disturbance, and, therefore, should not be turned out of their receptacles, unless they have become overgrown. Now that the roots are becoming active, any of the old, decayed material should be picked out, and its place filled with new com. post similar to that which I recommended for L. anceps in a former Calendar. During the early stages of growth apply water sparingly to these plants, but when they are fully active increase the supply, and syringe them overhead whenever the weather is favourable. Only a thin shade is necessary, and this should be removed early in the afternoon to allow the temperature to rise under the influence of sun heat. If the house in which these plants are grown is kept

light and well ventilated, good, firm pseudobulbs will be formed capable of producing strong flower-spikes.

Lalia majalis.-This is a lovely, though some. what shy-flowering, species. Just now the plants are making growths, but there is little root action, hence, although atmospheric moisture is essential, only a little water should be afforded the roots. The flower-buds appear in the partially-developed growths, and are rapid in development. As soon as these are visible, a slight increase of moisture should be applied to the roots, and after the flowers have faded an abundant supply will be necessary until the pseudo-bulbs are fully developed. If any plants need

new rooting material, this should be afforded when new roots are being made from the base of the youngest pseudo-bulbs. They should be given the same position, temperature, and potting as recommended above for the other species.

PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. By JAMES WHITTON, Superintendent of the Parks and Open Spaces in the City of Glasgow. Culture of hardy plants (continued)-Daffodils. -Of the many excellent buibous plants in cultivation, none are more accommodating than the Narcissus. In comparison with some other species it may not present so much variety and brilliance of colouring, but for grace and general usefulness it is unsurpassed. The popu larising of the Narcissus is one of the most notable circumstances in modern gardening. Here is a genus containing many species and varie. ties, which for many generations were looked upon and treated simply as common things by the great majority of gardeners. This is all the more striking from the fact that their elegance and beauty were alluded to in song and story, and gardeners are commonly credited as having a poetic life. Where is there a finer apprecia tion of the effects of any flower when seen in mass under picturesque conditions than Wordsworth's classical lines on the Daffodil? They contain food for reflection to those studying our subject. Amongst the enthusiasts who laboured to popularise Narcissi with much success was Peter Barr, V.M.H., a veteran well known to many readers of this journal, who well deserves the title of "Daffodil King which his friends bestow on him. In the various groups in which Narcissi are arranged there are now too many varieties. The niceties of distinction which a certain class of botanists are credited with in regard to the classification of plants is not a whit more pronounced than those set forth by florists of the exact school when riding their hobby. However useful much of such work may be for exhibition purposes, fine details in form are of no account if the variety does not possess the essential qualities of vigour, good habit and floriferousness along with a shade of colour which will make it effective at a distance. Therefore, the time has come when a more rigid elimi nation of what are now second-rate sorts should be made. There also might be in the classification of sorts a fuller description as to their suitability for specific purposes, such as for early forcing, the supply of flowers for cutting, garden culture, and what here concerns us chiefly, their value for naturalising in Grass. The fact that all sorts are not equally suitable for each or all of the above purposes is well known to many, but it is not sufficiently known to all cultivators. There are other points which necessitate per. sonal experiment. While in some districts the soil appears to suit almost all sorts, there are others in which they grow strongly, but flower sparingly. There are also sorts which rapidly deteriorate or die out under ordinary garden cul ture, but which, when planted out in Grass and never disturbed will thrive and increase. Obviously, these are the sorts most valuable for the purpose under consideration. We have had a considerable number of different kinds under ob. servation in Glasgow for some years, and it is somewhat surprising to discover how few have come up to a reasonable standard of excellence for our purpose. Many which proved valuable for cultivation in pots, have dwindled away when planted in rough, grassy sward, or on a stiff, clay soil. Of the many fine new forms, several promise well, but they are far too expensive as yet for naturalising. Without classifying them, the following are suitable and satisfactory sorts:

N. Pseudo-Narcissus, scoticus, minor, Telamonius plenus, Golden Spur, Henry Prinz, Countess of Annesley, Horsfieldii, Emperor, Empress, Grandee, incomparabilis, Cynosure, Queen Bess, Stella superba, Sir Watkin (which is the most effective of the group), Barrii conspicuus, General Murray, Golden Gem, Duchess. of Brabant, Duchess of Westminster, Minnie Hume, Mrs. Langtry, Nelsonii, major, Falstaff, John Rain, poeticus, poeticus ornatus (very effective and free-flowering), and poeticus poetarum. The double forms of N. incomparabilis, Orange and Sulphur Phoenix, and the pale trumpets, also the Jonquils have not been at all satisfactory here. There is no lack of variety of form and colour in the selection I have given, and by their use the flowering season can be prolonged for over two months.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. By W. FYFE, Gardener to Lady WANTAGE, Lockinge Park, Berkshire.

Staking-Such plants as Canna, Grevillea robusta, Plumbago capensis, Bougainvillea, and Rondeletia will require to be supported by stakes. These should be of neat appearance and of sufficient strength to prevent the plants from being blown by outside winds. Make the soil firm about the roots of these plants at the time of planting, and afterwards take every care to prevent the roots suffering from drought.

Seedlings. Many plants that have been raised from seeds sown under glass and were pricked out into unheated frames are now ready for planting. China Asters and Stocks require moderately rich soil. Aster sinensis, affording, as it does, such an infinite diversity of colour and possessing long stems which make the flowers valuable for use in a cut state, should,. therefore, be planted freely, and during the process of transplanting care should be taken to preserve as much soil as possible about the

roots.

Carpet bedding.-A bed or two of this type serves to add variety, and constitutes a conspicuous feature in the scheme of summer bed. ding. For such beds the soil should be raised somewhat above the level of the turf, and the surface should be made smooth and quite level before the design is marked out. Suitable plants for the planting of edgings are Herniaria glabra and Sedum. Echeveria and Sempervivum are also useful, and, for providing immediate effect, best of all. If the beds are large, when the ground has been prepared for planting, a stout plank should be raised on blocks placed at either end for the planter to stand upon, so that he will not need to tread upon the soil. The young plants being very tender, care is necessary not to press them too severely; at the same time, the roots should be made sufficiently firm that they will soon be able to estab lish themselves in the soil. Spray the beds occasionally in the evening when the sun has ceased to shine upon the plants.

Sub-tropical bedding. There appear to be many more plants suitable for this style of bedding than was the case formerly. They have a stately, almost tropical, appearance, but require to be placed in well-chosen positions, where there is shelter from wind, and, where practicable, a backing of choice trees and shrubs. Such plants include Datura, Ricinus, Nicotiana,. Lavatera arborea variegata, Abutilon, and Acacia lophantha.

Dahlia.--Plants raised from seeds, cuttings, or tubers should now be planted in mixed borders or beds which have been prepared for them. Salvia pateas makes a good companion for the Dahlia. These plants require rich soil, and, if growing in poor soil, are likely to drop their flowers prematurely.

Border Carnations.-Spread a light mulch over the beds, and place stakes to the plants as growth proceeds. The coil stake is much the best for the purpose. The ordinary stake and matting require so much attention to prevent the inflorescence from receiving damage as growth proceeds.

The Rose maggot. Keep a sharp look-out for the Rose maggot, and wherever a curled leaf can be seen, pinch it between the finger and thumb, it being impossible to reach the maggots by means of an insecticide.

EDITORIAL NOTICE.

ADVERTISEMENTS should be sent to the PUBLISHER, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden W.c.

Letters for Publication, as well as specimens of plants for naming, should be addressed to the EDITOR, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, London. Communications should be WRITTEN ON ONE SIDE ONLY OF THE PAPER, sent as early in the week as possible and duly signed by the writer. If desired, the signature will not be printed, but kept as a guarantee of good faith. Special Notice to Correspondents.-The Editor does not undertake to pay for any contributions or illustrations, or to return unused communications or illustrations, unless by special arrangement. The Editor does not hold himself responsible for any opinions expressed by his correspondents. Illustrations. - The Editor will be glad to receive and to select photographs or drawings, suitable for reproduction, of gardens, or of remarkable plants, flowers, trees, &c., but ne cannot be responsible for loss or injury. New spapers.-Correspondents sending newspapers should be careful to mark the paragraphs they wish the Editor to see. Local News.-Correspondents will greatly oblige by sending to the Editor early intelligence of local events likely to be of interest to our readers, or of any matters which it is desirabic to bring under the notice of horticulturists.

to the increasing popularity of the subject with managers, teachers, and pupils alike. Thus it may fairly be asserted that this phase of present-day education is of great importance, and should be made to become of value to the scholars and to the country at large.

It is often asked what special advantages will accrue from it in the future life of the boy? Will all these boys become practical gardeners engaged in private service or the market gardens of Great Britain? The answer is that there is not sufficient room in private gardening for such large numbers, and if there were, it can scarcely be affirmed that the teaching which they are now receiv ing, excellent as it is in many ways, is precisely such as would immediately make them expert cultivators. They would still have to

School Gardening.

The inclusion of garden teaching in the curriculum of rural schools is not, as many appear to suppose, a pure innovation, but it was not until four years ago, when the subject received official recognition, that it acquired any real importance. The work had previously proceeded merely on tentative lines; the head teachers of the schools conducted the teaching entirely in their own way and subject to no expert inspection as is the case at the present time. The natural result of this was that while the elementary instruction in certain points may have been sound, its excellence was conspicuous on the theoretical rather than on the practical side, though this was undoubtedly equally important.

The development, however, has been enormous, as appears from an answer given a short time back in the House of Commons, which is recorded on p. 185 of our issue for March 21, 1908, to the effect that there are now no fewer than 1,138 schools in the country which are receiving grants for garden teaching from the Board of Education. Assuming an average of 12 scholars at each of these schools-and as the normal class is 14, this estimate cannot be regarded as excessive-it would appear that there are nearly 14,000 pupils receiving instruction in gardening during the present year. It is probable, however, that the number is still greater owing

apprenticeship, and it is certain that, keen as is their appreciation for gardening now that it takes them out of school during portions of the week, the enthusiasm of the majority would soon wear out.

In market gardens there will be room for some, but the work is not sufficiently remunerative to encourage even a moiety of the number to follow it as a life occupation. What then is the special advantage of this form of teaching? It is a simple question, but, like many others which relate to educational matters, it is not very easily answered. For the purely utilitarian aspect of educational matters is seldom the one that appeals to those who really understand these questions. The main object of educational training is essentially not to turn out specialists. Specialism comes later, and in so far as elementary education trenches on the more technical aspect of training, it falls short of its proper function, and, confusing two distinct matters, is likely to end in failure. The principle of "Quick Returns" is a very bad one from the educational standpoint.

Of course children must be induced to take as keen an interest as possible in their work, and this is usually most easily achieved by means of exercises that lead to tangible results. It is this which gives elementary science, as well as such work as gardening, its value as part of the school curriculum, and causes it to appeal so strongly to the minds of so many (though not all) intelligent boys and girls.

However, the severely practical person will never be satisfied with these things, but will insist that some direct good should result from the efforts which are being made. Well, he may rest satisfied so far as gardening is concerned. Small holdings are being extended on every hand, and the boys who have been taught the fundamental principles of practical and theoretical land cultivation will be the ones most likely to make a success of such holdings-at least, they will have a material advantage over the man who has drifted on to the land from the city office without the slightest knowledge of the soil, the principles that underlie the working of it, and how and when it must be cultivated to produce the most profitable returns. The mind of youth is most receptive, and it is unlikely that the principles which have been thoroughly inculcated will ever fade entirely away; the fact that the scholars are dwellers in rural districts where a garden is a necessary

adjunct to the dwelling-house and work is constantly proceeding, will serve admirably to keep the earlier teaching always fresh in the mind.

But if the instruction is to be of ultimate good in any direction, it must necessarily be sound to start with, and it may, therefore, be well to consider the manner in which it is now given, and see whether it is possible to improve upon it in any way that will make it more substantially valuable in the future. Broadly speaking, there are only two systems in general use, and they sprang from the opinions of two clever and thoroughly practical gardeners, Mr. John Wright, V.M.H., who has had charge of the work in Surrey from its inception, and the late Mr. Robert Cock, in Staffordshire, these two counties having been pioneers of gardening as applied to teaching in elementary day schools. Much work is now being done in all the different counties, but it is largely based upon the experience that was gained at the outset in Surrey and Staffordshire.

In Surrey, reliance is placed upon the in individual plot system which each scholar is assigned a piece of ground varying in extent from half a rod to a rod, and very occasionally slightly more; in Staffordshire the communal plot is adopted en which all the pupils work together. The former system may fairly be expected to bring forth better individual results, for each boy proves his own merit by the results which he achieves. In the common plot the individuality of the pupil is merged into the whole, and it is difficult, if not impossible, to separate the keen and clever workers from the idlers, of whom there are specimens in every school; the large plot, however, has the advantage of allowing of superior instruction being given as to how an allotment or a cottage garden would be actually cropped and managed, with a view to the production of the utmost amount of vegetables from the area at command. Rotations are not now regarded as of the same importance as they were some years ago, but it is desirable that they should be taught, as in certain circumstances they are imperative, and it is quite evident that these can never be as well and clearly shown on an area of half a rod cr a red as they can on 20 or 30 rods. The balance, might appear to be in favour of the larger plot, but something must be debited against it on the score of loss of individuality, coupled with the fact that the spirit of emulation or competition hardly enters into the matter at all. This is a matter deserving of con: ideration, as a boy will usually strive much more strenuously and persistently when he sees that his neighbour is getting ahead of him in the appearance of his ground and his plants.

The question arises as to whether it would not be possible to adopt a middle course between these two extremes and so to combine the best points of both. This might mean that each pupil should be provided with a small plot-half a rod would amply suffice in this case, though as a general rule it is rather too small-and that in addition there would have to be one large plot, say of 12 rods, on which the class would work in common. If it were practicable, this system might perhaps be expected to produce the most satisfactory results, for the individuality of the scholars would be retained in its entirety, while the communal