BEGONIA GLOIRE DE LORRAINE

AT BRAMHAM PARK.

BEING in the neighbourhood of Bramham Park recently I took the opportunity of calling upon Mr. Cameron, the gardener. My main object was to see the batch of plants of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, which I had heard were very good. The house devoted to them is a span-roofed structure, about 24 feet in length by 5 feet in width, with the usual centre and side stages. It was a wintry day, and the familiar sound of the ice-breakers at work a short distance away came through the air. Taking the Begonias as a whole, they certainly were the best batch of plants I have seen. They had been grown from small cuttings and leaves obtained from friends last spring. They were rooted in a small propa. gating case on one of the side stages in the adjoining stove, care being exercised in keeping the atmosphere as healthy and sweet as was pos sible. Little difference could be seen betwixt those raised from leaves or cuttings. As soon as they had formed roots they were potted into thumb pots in a light compost of one part wellrotted loam from the limestone formation, one part well-rotted Beech leaves, and one part fine peat with a sprinkling of fine charcoal, the

NEW OR NOTEWORTHY

PLANTS.

*MAHONIA ARGUTA, HUTCHINSON.
SP. Nov.

IN the summer of 1907 Mr. F. W. Moore, the Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, sent to Kew flowering specimens of a Mahonia which had been in cultivation at Glasnevin for over 28 years, but had not flowered previously, and was still undetermined. It now proves to be an undescribed species, closely allied to Mahonia paniculata, Oerst. The origin of the plant is unknown, but its nearest allies are natives of Central America, where they occur at altitudes of from 8,000 to 10,000 feet on the slopes of volcanic mountains in Guatemala and Costa Rica.

The species here described may be easily distinguished from M. paniculata by the narrower, entire, or one to three-toothed leaflets, the prominent reticulation, and the smaller petals. The leaves have five pairs of leaflets, and are shorter than the inflorescence; petioles sulcate, 7 to 8 inches long; leaflets lanceolate or oblong-lanceolate, almost sessile, or very shortly stalked, leathery, 2 to 3 inches long, terminating in a

[Photograph by C. P. Raffill.

whole being well mixed together. A similar compost was used in the later pottings, except that a rather larger proportion of loam was employed. During the summer the plants were cultivated on the side stages or on suspended shelves in the same house, the central bed in which is filled with a fine, healthy lot of Palms and Crotons in variety. As soon as the flowerbuds appeared in the autumn a slight dressing of an artificial manure was occasionally sprinkled on the surface of the soil, which in no case exceeded 8 inches in diameter. Some of the largest plants measured over 3 feet 6 inches across. Suspended from the roof there were about 20 baskets, also filled with healthy plants, which presented masses of flowers. In an adjoining compartment I noticed a very healthy batch of Euphorbia jacquiniæflora. All lovers of old-time gardens will be pleased to hear that the present owners of Bramham, Mr. and the Hon. Mrs. Lane Fox, are gradually and very tastefully developing and adding to the well-known beauty of the grounds, which in their main features are probably unique in this country They were originally laid out in the reign of Queen Anne. Yorkshire Gardener.

spinous point, entire, or with one to three spiny teeth, shining on both sides; veins and veinlets conspicuous. Panicles crowded at the apex of the branches, almost erect, lax, 12 to 16 inches long; branches elongated, with three or four lemon-yellow flowers to each, compressed and rigid, up to 1 inches long. Bracts of the branches and pedicels ovate-lanceolate, one or two lines long, acute. Sepals nine; three external small, elliptic, 1 lines long, three-nerved; three intermediate and the three interior oblong

*Mahonia arguta, Hutchinson, sp. nov., affinis M. paniculatæ, Oerst. a qua foliolis angustioribus integris vel dentibus spinosis 1-3 munitis, reticulatione Folia utrinque prominente, petalis minoribus recedit. 5-juga, quam inflorescentia breviora, petiolis sulcatis 17-20 cm. longis; foliola lanceolata vel oblongo-lanceolata, subsessilia vel brevissime petiolulata, coriacea, 5-9 cm, longa, 1-2 cm. lata, spinoso-terminata, integra vel 1-3 spinoso-dentata, utrinque nitida, venis et venulis utrinque conspicuis. Paniculæ ad apicem ramorum congestæ, suberectæ, laxæ, 30-40 cm. longæ, ramulis elongatis 3-4-floris compressis rigidis usque ad 4 cm. longis. Bracteæ ramorum et pedicellorum ovato-lanceolatæ, 2-4 mm. longæ, acutæ. Sepala 3 externa parva, elliptica, 3 mm. longa, 3-nervia; 3 intermedia et 3 interna oblongo-elliptica, 6 mm. longa, 3 mm. lata. Petala 6, oblonga, apice bilobata, 4 mm. longa, 3 mm. lata. Stamina 6, filamentis 2 mm., theris 1-5 mm. longis. Ovarium oblongum, 2 mm. longum. Bacca globosa, 6 mm. diametro.

an

elliptic, 3 lines long, 1 lines broad. Petals six, oblong, bifid at the apex, 2 lines long, 1 lines broad. Stamens six; filaments 1 line long. Ovary oblong, 1 line long. Berry globose, about 3 lines in diameter.

Dr. F. Fedde, in an excellent monograph of Mahoniat, which he has restored to generic rank, makes the following comparisons between the two genera :-In Berberis, in its restricted sense, the leaves are always simple, and may be either evergreen or deciduous; whereas, in Mahonia they are always imparipinnate and evergreen. The simple leaf of Berberis, however, is articulated at the base in the same way as the terminal leaflet of Mahonia, so that it may be looked upon as a reduced imparipinnate leaf.

The inflorescence of Berberis is situated at the apex of a short-shoot, which arises in the axil of a leaf-thorn; whereas that of Mahonia arises from the axil of a scale of the winter bud which terminates a long shoot.

In Berberis the flower usually consists of six sepals in two whorls of three, six petals in two whorls, six stamens in two whorls, and a single pistil.

In B. Wallichiana, D.C., B. empetrifolia, Link, B. aristata, D.C., and B. quindiuensis, A.B.K., the number of calyx whorls varies from three to five.

In Mahonia the flower always consists of nine sepals in three whorls of three, and the petals, stamens, and pistil, as in Berberis.

In regard to their leaves and inflorescence, therefore, Berberis and Mahonia represent two different lines of development, and might, accordingly, be regarded as generically distinct.

Nuttall, when establishing the genus Mahonias, stated that the petals did not possess the nectariferous glands which were constant in Berberis; but Fedde points out that the glands are present in all the species of Mahonia, although sometimes inconspicuous, and hence easily overlooked.

Again, the tooth-like appendages on the filaments, given as a generic character of Mahonia by Nuttall, are wanting in some of the species of that genus, and they are present in the section Odontostemones of Berberis.

It is evident from the above comparison that there is a fairly good case for segregation, although the only constant differences are the simple and compound leaves on the one hand, and, on the other, the relative positions of the inflorescences on the shoots. J. Hutchinson, Kew.

FLORUS VAR, LAXUS.

THE Philadelphus or Mock Oranges as a class are so well known in gardens that it seems almost impossible to suggest anything which is not already well known in regard to them. The object of the present note is, therefore, merely to call attention to a fine form of P. grandiflorus, known under the above name, which possesses characters which render it worthy of the notice of lovers of hardy shrubs. The flowers, which are 2 inches across, are more loosely disposed and are more numerous on the inflorescence, thus displaying their individual beauty much better than those of the type, while they are produced a week to ten days later. The plant is the largest of the genus, and will quickly form a specimen 10 to 12 feet high and as much across. Incidentally the illustration serves to show what a fine effect may be produced by this plant when grown as a single specimen on a lawn, but the flowers being pure white, require the setting of a background of trees in order to be seen to the best advantage. C. P. Raffill.

"Engl. Bot. Jahrb.," vol. xxxi. (1902), p. 3c Fedde states on the authority of Usteri that thes short-shoots and leaf-thorns are absent in B. insign s and B. acuminata. An examination of the Kew material proves this to be incorrect; they are present in both, but sometimes wanting in B. insignis,

§ Nuttall," Gen. N. Amer." (1818), p. 211.

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

All

"THE BOOK OF GARDEN PESTS." THIS, the latest of the books dealing with plant diseases and pests, is especially designed for the cultivator, and we think it admirably fulfils the purpose for which it was written. people whose business lies with plants ought to be able to recognise and deal with the more commonly occurring pathological troubles that are the inevitable result of intensive cultivation. Every modern gardener, who is worth his salt, aspires to know something more than the mere manual work connected with his profession, and in these days the spread of education has made it a relatively easy matter for anyone who desires knowledge to be put in the way of getting it. Certainly a general acquaintance with the symptoms and immediate causes of disease should form part of the intellectual capital of every cultivator who means to be more than an unskilled labourer, and it is to the intelligent gardener that Mr. Pearson's book will appeal.

It is clearly written, without detailed discussion or technicalities which would be out of place in a small volume, and the subjectmatter is well arranged. In a work of this kind, of course, a selection of the more commonly occurring diseases and pests had to be made, and we can congratulate the author on the way in which he has exercised his discretion in this matter.

he are at fault concerning the dwarf Alyssum maritimum, which originally came from America. Mr. Dicks contributes a short historical note, and Mr. Atlee Burpee, writing from Philadelphia, records his impressions, which are altogether favourable, of what he saw last Mr. Leak summer in England and Ireland. recommends 'sheep" netting as supports, and Major Nedwell tells of how he grows Sweet Peas in New South Wales. Mr. Mackereth, of Ulverston, in forcible language recommends the popular vote as the best means of deciding the position of novelties. A warning to growers to beware of "streak is given by Mr. W. P. Wright, and then Mr. Bathurst, Chudleigh, tells There how he produces Gold Medal blooms. follows a short exposition by Mr. George Gordon Principles," and the history of the Reading trials at which 373 "varieties were subjected

on

to a thorough testing last year, is supplied by Mr. Charles Foster; a short note from Mr. Fox, Wellington, New Zealand, describes Sweet Peas in the Antipodes. The Annual is edited by Mr. Chas. H. Curtis and Mr. Horace J. Wright, and is freely illustrated with portraits and pictures of Sweet Peas, &c. B.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

VARIETIES OF MAGNOLIA
GRANDIFLORA.

BEDELIAN remarked in Gardeners' Chronicle for December 7 last that all the specimens of M. grandiflora are not of the same habit, and he stated that he had discovered diversities in the direction of the leaves, the petals, and the colour of the veins. Of one variety which Dr. Bedelian describes, he failed to find particulars in several botanical works he consulted. I append the following translation from Professor Moullifert's particulars of about a dozen varieties described in his Traité des Arbres and Arbrisseaux. Dr. Bedelian will perhaps find his specimen to belong to one of these:

DR. What the gardener wants when he finds a disease is the remedy; he is naturally more interested in the cure than the more purely Scientific questions raised in considering the etiology of the evil. He will find a considerable list of remedies given in the early chapters, and their mode of application is fully described. We have noted one or two misprints in the proportions given for making up certain of these; on p. 11, in preparing Lysol, the proportion of this substance to water is given as 508 pints to 22 gallons; probably 5 to 8 pints was what was really intended, as this represents about the Correct amount. In the directions for making up Bordeaux mixture, given on p. 24, the requisite amount of copper sulphate is correctly given as 6 lbs., but a few lines further down 84 lbs. is mentioned. But these typographical errors are so apparent that they should hardly prove misleading.

The general subject-matter of the book is arranged according to the classes of plants; thus there is a chapter on "Pests common to many plants," and this is followed by others. In which the maladies of tuberous and bulbous plants, miscellaneous plants, fruit trees, vege. tables, and so forth, are considered.

The book is well illustrated, and it can be warmly recommended as one which every gar dener ought to possess. J. B. F.

"THE SWEET PEA ANNUAL, 1908." THIS is the official organ of the National Sweet Pea Society, and it is a better issue even than that of last year. New features include a catalogue of all known Sweet Peas, a list of inferior varieties, and a series of questions with their answers, as given by experts throughout the country. Some of the answers are not only of slight value, but are not altogether trustworthy. The audits are fully given, but these must always fail to give satisfaction to the seeker after the best things, because in the nature of things the very best of the newer varieties canrot possibly be given justice. That, of course, is a drawback which one expects, but it surely would not be difficult to get a dozen or a score of experts who have opportunities of examining new varieties previous to their being offered to the public to vote on these and to give the result in the Annual. Mr. Hugh Aldersey prorides a short and chatty but delightful notice of Sweet Pea enthusiasts. But if one may ven. ture to offer a correction, both Mr. Burpee and By R. Hooper Pearson. London: John Lane, 1908. Pp. 14. Price, 2s. 6d.

are

"The varieties in cultivation at present are relatively numerous, which amongst M. angustifolia, narrow leaved; crispa, leaves curled and waved; gallissoniensis, this is the hardiest variety, and that which makes the finest specimen trees; macrantha, large flowers, very fine; majardieriensis, very beautiful flowers; nannetensis, double, and very flori ferous; oxoniensis, Lodd. Bot. Cat., double flowers; rotundifolia, round leaves; salicifolia, willow leaved (not the species M. salicifolia); stricta, branches upright and close; ferruginosa, a rusty-leaved variety, little different from the type, except that the tomentum on the under side of the leaves and shoots has the rustiness more abundant." J. Murison.

CYTISUS ARDOINII.

ONE of the most exquisite of all the dwarf Cytisuses or Brooms is that called C. Ardoinii, a native of the Maritime Alps, which has been in cultivation for about 40 years, and is viewed with ever-increasing favour by those who are acquainted with this beautiful little flower. As a wall-garden plant it is quite at home, and in the rock-garden it is equally beautiful when properly placed, but it must have a dryish and sunny situation if its beauty is to be fully displayed, and in such its growth is more compact, its flowers are more freely borne, and they seem of better colour than elsewhere. Nowhere do I recollect having seen it so fine as in a sunny wall-garden supporting a bank in the garden of Mr. Hope, of Belmont, near Edin. burgh, where a plant was thriving and flowering in the most delightful way a summer or two ago. It revived afresh the admiration I have long felt for Ardoine's Broom, with its decum. bent stems, hairy leaves, and bright yellow flowers. Its height is only some 4 or 5 inches, and a good plant, such as that at Belmont, is not easily forgotten. S. Arnott.

THE ROSARY.

CULTURAL NOTES.

THE east wind has persisted from the last week in December almost without intermission, and the weather in general has increased in severity. The soil is saturated with the heavy rainfall in most parts of the country, and the gardener is wise who takes the precaution to store plenty of litter, Fern fronds, tree leaves, &c., for use in covering his more tender Roses in the present month.

The mild weather in January that prevailed in some parts of this country caused premature growth of Roses planted in sheltered positions, the buds being now almost ready to burst. All autumn and early winter-planted Roses should have their shoots fastened securely against the wind, and the soil made firm about the roots, should this have been rendered loose by frost. I may here make remarks upon the advantages and disadvantages of budded plants on Briar, Manetti stocks and own-root Roses. Many of the less robust varieties thrive better when worked upon thrifty stocks. The Tea-scented on the de la Grifferie stock, and the Hybrid Perpetual on the Briar and Manetti Ownroot Roses, when the varieties are of vigorous growth, are excellent; and another point in their favour is that there is an absence of suckers from the wilding stock. The only remedy against the production of root suckers on worked stocks is to carefully disbud the young plants when they are set out, and again when planted out in lines for budding purposes. Gardeners sometimes unknowingly cultivate these suckers, and then express astonishment that they do not flower like the rest of the plant. When the early-forced Roses begin to show their flower buds, use a slight dressing (a teaspoonful) of Clay's fertiliser or canary guano to a 6-inch pot, stirring the surface a little and affording water to carry it to the roots. A dose of the fertiliser may be applied twice a week till the flower buds show colour, when once a week will suffice, and as the flowers develop in size discontinue the manure altogether. Established plants of Hybrid Perpetuals take from eight to ten weeks to force into bloom, and those potted in the autumn from ten to twelve weeks, according to the variety.

Teas and Noisette varieties will take a few weeks less time. As the sun heat increases with the season, less time will be required to bring on the plants. It may be here stated that varieties of the Hybrid Perpetual class are impatient of hard forcing, and if this is practised the quality of the flowers will be poor. A day temperature of 55° to 60° by artificial means is high enough, but with sun-heat it may rise to 65° without injury to the blooms. In order to maintain a succession of blooms several batches of plants should be grown, and these brought on under glass as may be required. Keep the Rose forcing-house humid, and ply the syringe among the plants on bright mornings, but as the plants begin to show flower, less humidity and more ventilation will be necessary, taking care not to admit air when it is very cold. If aphides appear on the plants, fumigate or vaporise them before the flowers open, and for mildew apply a solution of soft soap and black sulphur (S. vivum) to the hot water pipes. The earliest grafted Roses will now be sufficiently advanced for repotting out of 60's into 48's (4 and 5-inch pots). As potting soil, mellow loam of good quality with a small quantity of decayed manure and sand added thereto will suit the Hybrid Perpetuals; and for Teas, Noisettes and Chinas, a small quantity of leaf-mould may be added the other substances. In potting the plants keep the point of union under the surface and pot firmly. For drainage use a few small bits of bone and charcoal, which will have a wonderful effect on growth later on. These plants may be returned to the forcing house and kept there till the roots have permeated the new

to

soil, afterwards removing to a cooler house. Repotting can be continued as fast as they become ready for it until the whole of the stock of plants is finished. Their treatment later in the year will be referred to again. The remainder of the pruning of the plants in the borders may now be completed, i.e., assuming that there is a little artificial heat at command for use in frosty weather when the inside temperature is likely to fall below 45°; with sunheat it may rise up to 55° without any disadvantage if a small amount of air be afforded at the top of the house. The Teas, hybrid Teas, and some of the Noisette varieties are the better for being planted out in borders, and a nice effect is produced when standard plants are mixed among them. Among the newer varieties of the hybrid Tea Roses there are many shades of colour from pure white, cream, pink, and crimson, which almost rival the high-coloured Hybrid Perpetuals, and they have a more prolonged flowering period than those. The varieties Maréchal Niel, Niphetos, Allen K. Richardson, Lamarque, &c., are very good as climbing Roses and for covering rafters, &c. In pruning these climbers the old wood should be shortened back, and all the well-ripened rods retained, merely pinching the unripened ends for flowering during the present season. This will induce all the lower and upper buds to break into flowering shoots later. The house may now be closed for several weeks or till such time as the buds begin to swell after the soil has received a thorough soaking of water. The heat may then be increased to 55° during the day and a moist atmosphere maintained, and the amount of air afforded and regulated in some degree in accordance with the prevailing outside conditions. J. D. G.

USES OF THE MOTOR IN HORTICULTURE.

(Continued from page 66.)

WHEN the purchase of a steam waggon or an industrial motor of any description is under consideration, every arrangement should be made to "keep the wheels rolling." It is not unusual, around Covent Garden, to see loaded horse vans standing many hours until the sales of the loads are completed. This method may pos sibly have its advantages, but, from an economical point of view, it would not apply to a steam waggon. A two or three hours' stoppage is within reason; but if it is probable that the delay will frequently exceed this, arrangements should be made by which the waggon may be un. loaded, in order that it may be employed on other work. A steam waggon employed on depôt to depôt work, without undue waste of time in loading and unloading, will easily cover 50 miles in the day over average roads, and will carry a load of 5 tons, or if a trailer is used, 7 tons. If two journeys have to be made instead of one, 40 miles in the day is ample, for allowance must be made for the extra time occupied in loading and unloading.

The cost of such work will amount to about £7 per week, made up as follows:

Depreciation, 20 per cent.

£2 2 4 050

1 15 0

100

050

020

1 0 0

0 15 ú £7 4 4

During the first year, provided that a capable driver is engaged, no repairs should be necessary other than the driver will be able to deal with himself. It is better to pay a little extra for a driver with a good all-round knowledge of the machine under this charge, than to engage a man for a small wage who knows little more than how to steer. Where a fleet of several vehicles are to

be employed, it is preferable to provide a repair shop and to employ a man whose sole duty it is to maintain the efficiency of the vehicles. In this way the repairs are spread over the whole year, and the engines are always in perfect tune. It is not economical to do this, unless one vehicle is kept as a reserve only, otherwise much of the engineer's time will be wasted.

The manufacturers will give a guarantee with the vehicle, in which they will undertake to make good any breakage due to inferior or faulty materials used. When purchasing the waggon care should be taken in the wording of this guarantee, for that provided by the manufacturer is not of a very binding nature. With these few precautions, at the end of the year the owner will find himself well on the right side of his repair estimate.

Spare parts must be considered, and it is well to have a complete price list from the manufacturer and compare these prices with those for which spares may be purchased from local engineers' stores and such firms who specialise in motor spares of all descriptions. A guarantee should also be obtained with the waggon that all nuts and bolts, studs, steam, and water fittings are of standard sizes and threads.

It is not advisable when repairs become necessary to call in the manufacturer and give him a

trailer is used, it is better not to use it when the roads are in bad condition, unless it is necessary to carry bulk rather than weight.

If a long delay in unloading is absolutely unavoidable, the small tractor has an advantage over the steam waggon, in that two trailers may be employed; one of these may be left behind for unloading, whilst that which is empty may be returned for another load. In this way the engine need not be delayed. The working expenses of the 5-ton steam tractor are much the same as those for the 5-ton steam waggon. It lacks the handiness of the latter in manipulation, but for certain work it cannot be beaten. In addition to its use as a tractor, it may be used for driving machinery where the belt drive is employed, and will fulfil all the duties of the ordinary portable engine. There is no reason why the steam waggon should not be so employed, but that the engine, in many cases, is not quite so conveniently arranged.

It is hardly possible to give comparative figures of costs, with railway rates varying as they do in every part of the country; but, assuming that the waggon is fully loaded with 5 tons one way only, and for five days per week, the cost works out at 1s. 5d. per loaded mile, includ. ing the cost of the empty return journey. This is at a cost of, approximately, 31d. per ton mile;

free hand. If the waggon has been well chosen there should not be much to be done for a year or more except to the bearings, bushes, and, perhaps, a pinion wheel to be renewed. If the driver is worth his money he will be able to do all this with the assistance of his stoker.

To prevent waste of fuel and oil the former should be weighed out in cwt. sacks and booked to the waggon daily.

Oil and waste should be measured out weekly. It is necessary to have a "permit" to take water from the town mains, but in the country, clean stream water is much better for boiler purposes, and should always be used when obtainable.

Depreciation depends upon the state of effiIt ciency in which the vehicle is maintained. does not follow that because 20 per cent. is allowed that the life of the engine will only be five years.

For lack of space, it is impossible to give any. thing but the merest outline of how a vehicle should be maintained, but the above few hints may be of use. The point is not to neglect anything. An adjustment taken in time will save many a breakdown involving great expense.

Never overload a waggon. If it is built for 5 tons, do not put more than 5 tons on it.

If a

but, then, return loads must be taken into consideration, such as manure, coal, and all such stores that are necessary for cultivation. It is fair to assume two-third loads might be obtained for the return journey, and this brings the cost per loaded mile down to 10 d., and the cost per ton mile to a fraction over 2d. Then, the actual cost of marketing 5 tons of produce from 20 to 25 miles distant would be 16s. 8d., or 3s. 4d. per ton. A mathematician is not necessary to prove that this is cheaper than either by rail or horse transport.

There are three points to bear in mind, and these are:

(1) The best steam waggon obtainable must be purchased.

(2) The best driver obtainable must be engaged and well treated.

(3) The full employment of the waggon must be ensured.

Should the market be 50 miles distant, to arrive at the cost per ton double the above. figures, and allow, say, 2s. 6d. for lodgings for the men, and this gives 7s. 2d. per ton.

There are, no doubt, many growers who, not having sufficient haulage work to keep a steam waggon constantly employed, would prefer a

machine which, like the farmer's boy of whom we have all heard, could do "most anything" about the land. Then the agricultural motor is well worthy of consideration; but as the writer is afraid that even now he has approached perilously near to the imaginary line which divides horticulture from agriculture, this subject will not be treated, at any rate for the present. Hugh Miller, C.E., M.E.

(To be continued.)

VEGETABLES.

EARLY PEAS OF RECENT

INTRODUCTION.

DURING the past few years there has been a great advance as regards the quality and size of the earliest varieties of Peas, and though in most instances earliness also is claimed, and there is a gain, there can be no question what. ever concerning the two first-named characteristics when we compare the newer varieties which have a Marrow flavour with the small white or green round Peas of former years. Now there is no difficulty whatever in having good early Peas, and

FIG. 38.-"IVEL

seedlings being weak at the start. The soil should be of good quality, and for drainage material use rough siftings of the soil, which enables the subsequent planting-out to be more readily performed. I have also used good-sized pieces of spent hot-bed manure. The soil in the pots should be made firm and not filled-in too much, but plenty of space left for affording water. The pots should then be placed (on a hard bottom so as to keep out worms) in the frames and near the glass, and for a time kept close, to encourage germination of the seeds; in cold weather cover the glass but remove the mats, &c., in fine weather. At the start very little moisture is required, but as soon as the plants are well above the surface ventilate freely whenever the weather permits of this being done.

I have also seen the seed sown on strips of turf and in boxes, troughs, or seed pans, but I prefer pots-the planting out is so readily done; but with plenty of glass at command some of the dwarf growers, which I will presently name, give a splendid return if sown in the frames and grown from the beginning to the finish under glass. Another plan which I have found useful is to sow in 8-inch pots and grow near the glass. Some of the dwarf varieties sown in the month

At

these but little inferior as regards flavour to the Marrowfat or summer varieties, but it is only just to add that Marrowfat Peas are less hardy than the older Peas alluded to; and to sow such in a heavy, wet, or clayey soil in October or November is to court failure. the same time, with some little attention paid to details, this may be avoided; indeed, I have rarely seen satisfactory results from the early autumn sowings in the open ground. The plants have many trials to bear in the shape of rapid changes in the weather, attacks of slugs, snails, and birds. I will therefore note the advantages in frames at the start, whenever cold frames are available; and failing these, note the value of protection in the open ground for a short period of time. This being done, good pods are obtainable at a small outlay in regard to labour and materials.

Frame culture.-There are several modes of cultivating Peas, but I prefer to sow the seeds in pots, in January if possible, and to sow only new seed, the plants from the latter having greater vigour The pots may be large 60's or small 48's, and if the former, do not crowd the seed; this is a common cause of failure, the

of January will supply pods fit for gathering in April. The new variety Reading Wonder, 12 inches high, is a splendid forcer. Of course, when the plants are intended to be grown in the frames till they form pods a little more space must be afforded, that is, they must be farther from the glass than is needed with pots which are planted out in the early spring. Seed sown to plant out as advised should be ready early in March, and the land should have been prepared some time in advance, and if at all heavy means must have been taken to lighten it. This may be done by a free use of old potting-bench waste soil, and fine burnt refuse or wood ashes are excellent. A rather deep drill is advisable, this being a protection and shelter from wind at the start. The planting should be done firmly, and if possible a south or sloping border should be chosen in the front of a wall for these early crops.

Sowings in the open ground. The same varieties as those advised for sowing in pots should be sown out-of-doors in the south early in February, weather permitting. This crop pays for special attention to cultivation, heavy or wet soil being improved by drainage and by the

addition of friable, light materials; these not only benefit the Peas, but the crops of other vegetables that succeed them. I would advise the soil in the trench or drills to be dug out a spade deep, substituting lighter and better soil. There is nothing gained by sowing in wet or frosty weather, as germination is more rapid under better conditions. When sowing, a deep drill should be drawn, and sowings made when the soil is dryish, but no date can be given when to sow, this being dependent on the weather, the season, and the locality. It may be stated that during the last season, seed sown in March produced plants that were in pod in 12 weeks, and these were only protected at the start. With open ground Peas of the Marrowfat type the soil should be friable, and much may be done at the start to assist the crop by using long stable litter, which must be removed in fine weather; by having a deep drill or shallow trench, and by affording the plants support as soon as they come through the soil. It is an easy matter to shake some litter over the rows at night when the weather is cold, drawSome ing the same into the alleys by day. gardeners may think that Peas grown in this manner cost too much trouble, but this is not so, and it is well repaid in earliness and good quality at a period when other vegetables are scarce, and the early crops of Peas are worth a little extra attention.

Varieties.-There is a splendid choice of varieties, and one of the first on my list is a new Pea introduced last year-Pioneer, a dwarf plant under 2 feet in height and very robust. It has a dark green pod and is very early, and is excellent for the first crop in the open quarter; seeds sown early in March will be ready towards the middle of the month of May. This indeed is one of the best for an exposed garden that I have ever grown. I have referred to Reading Wonder as a frame or pot variety, and it is a splendid novelty--very dwarf, and its quality excellent for an early Pea; it is equally good for the open ground, and when sown under a wall on a south border, with a wall on the north side, it matures in 12 weeks. Another new Pea that should become a great favourite for cultivating under glass or in the open ground is Sutton's World's Record, which formed a feature at the R.H.S. meeting on May 14 last, and though a taller variety than those noted above, it is a fine forcing variety, a large pod of the true Marrow type, a free bearer, and very early. It is a good variety to sow in pots for planting out, and grown in this way it does not grow so tall, but it affords splendid crops. Another fine Pea is Sutton's Little Marvel, quite different in every respect from the lastnamed, and it may be called an all-round variety, being equally good for forcing or early cropping in the open; as a proof of its excellence in every point it has received a First-class Certificate, and an Award of Merit from the R.H.S. in a severe test for earliness and quality. For its size Little Marvel is an extraordinary cropping Pea, and is only 12 to 15 inches in height, making it very suitable for small gardens. In my opinion it is greatly superior in every respect to American Wonder or Harbinger.

Another very fine early Pea is Excelsior, a heavy cropper and a fine bearer in poor land. Another remarkably early Pea, and a grand forcing variety, is Carter's Eight Weeks-a suitable name, for when grown in pots it was the first to come into use. It has a good deal of the Marrowfat Pea in its composition, and is greatly superior to the old types of early Peas. One of its parents was William the First, a Pea which years ago proved a great advance upon older varieties. This Eight Weeks variety is 15 inches high, and a splendid early Pea. The Early Morn, a much larger podded Pea than the last-named, is a grand early variety, 3 feet in height, and a rapid grower. It should not be sown very early in warm soils. Carter's Spring Tide is also a very fine early Pea, having dark green pods and possessing the Marrow fat flavour.

It grows from 2 to 3 feet in height. Last season I gave the new Mayflower Pea a trial. It is a cross from Daisy and Wm. Hurst, but it is twice as large as the last-named, very prolific and early, 18 inches in height, and a splendid variety for a warm border. The new Veitch's Langley Gem is another early Pea of fine quality; and the variety Earliest Marrow is excellent for sowing in the month of March. G. Wythes.

The Week's Work.

THE ORCHID HOUSES.

By H. G. ALEXANDER, Orchid Grower to Major G. L. HOLFCRD, C.V.O., C.I.E., Westonbirt, Gloucestershire.

The approaching need for shading.-The sun is often very powerful towards the end of Febru. ary, if only for a short time in the day, therefore blinds for shading purposes should be made ready for use without delay. For houses which contain species possessing leaves of a soft texture, blinds made of the rather closely-woven white garden net now so freely used, afford the best shading, as they break the force of the sun's rays, but admit plenty of light. A similar material, but of a lighter texture, should be used on houses devoted to such plants as are not injured by slightly modified sunshine. The blinds should, in all cases, be kept well above the glass, as this allows a current of air to pass freely, which serves to keep the atmospheric temperature of the house from becom. ing excessively hot. They should also be made to take on and off easily, so that they may be stored under cover during winter. Some gardeners leave them in position in order to use them as a covering for the houses on frosty nights, but I fail to see that this practice is advantageous. The covering of the glass is undeniably a good protection from frost, as I previously pointed out, but when the frost is severe, blinds so used sometimes have to be left down until nearly mid-day, owing to the pulleys and ropes being frozen hard, thus shutting out the light that is so necessary for the plants. At the end of winter and during the early spring, when very cold nights are often followed by warm, bright days, the fixed blinds are useful to cover the glass at night, as the frost is seldom severe enough to prevent them from being freely worked early in the next day. It will be a long time before shading will be needed for more than an hour or so during the middle of the day, and it is not advisable to shade the plants sooner than is necessary. The condition of the plants and the position of the houses in which they are growing will determine how soon it is desirable to commence. If the blinds are put into position early this month, they will be ready for any emergency, be it either as a protection on cold nights, or on the bright, cold days which often prevail during this and next month, when it is impossible to open the ventilators to regulate the heat without causing injurious draughts.

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

By T. COOMBER, Gardener to LORD LLANGATTOCK,
The Hendre, Monmouthshire.

The Muscat of Alexandria and other Muscat varieties of the Grape require a long season of growth and skilful management to bring the fruit to perfection, and the vines which are to furnish the principal crops should be started at this date, in order that they may pass through the critical stages of growth during the seasons most favourable, and the fruit may colour well and ripen perfectly. The leaves of the Muscat of Alexandria if grown in deficiently-ventilated vineries, or in those which have trellises placed too near the glass, are very liable to be "scalded" sunshine; by bright where such defects exist, they should, if possible, be rectified before the vines are started. The vines and houses having been cleansed, and the borders afforded water and a top dressing in the manner previously advised for late vines, the vineries should be closed, and a night temperature of 50°, rising to about 65° from sunheat, should be employed and maintained with regularity, the vines and interior of the vinery being syringed two or three times daily.

Early-fruiting Muscat vines.-The gardener is usually caused anxiety while these vines are in blossom, but if they are healthy the results are invariably good if a night temperature of 70°,

with a rise of 5° or 10° on cloudy days, and an increase of 5° to 10° higher on sunny days is afforded, and the air in the vinery is maintained in a dry, warm, buoyant condition, by judicious ventilation. The pollen may then be distributed with a soft brush at mid-day. The disbudding and stopping of lateral shoots should be carried out a few days before the flowers expand, so that no check may occur, and the sunlight is not needlessly reduced in amount whilst the vines are in flower.

Late Peach houses.-The buds on the trees in these houses will soon be developing naturally, and the trees must be prepared for their season of growth, loosening the branches from the trellises and carefully tieing them in bundles. Having done this, clean the woodwork, &c., of the houses, and coat the walls with limewash. The older branches should be thoroughly washed with a warm, moderately strong solution of Gishurst's compound soap, and the young wood with warm soap suds4 ounces soft soap to the gallon of water. This operation, if properly done, will clear the trees of red spider and brown scale, though these pests are best dealt with in the season of growth. Peach and Nectarine trees that were properly disbudded and had their shoots stopped and trained-in last summer will have a sufficient number of fruitful shoots, which, at 5 inches apart, will furnish the trellises. If there should be an excess of young shoots, remove as many of the more unfruitful and illplaced ones as is required, clear away the surface soil of the borders, and top dress them with good loam, mixed with plenty of wood ashes and a smaller quantity of bone meal.

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

By THOMAS LUNT, Gardener to A. STIRLING, Esq., Keir, Perthshire, N.B. Primulas. Seeds of P. sinensis, stellata and obconica should now be sown for flowering in the month of November; and shallow pans or 6-inch pots, well-drained, are very suitable in which to SOW. The compost employed should consist of equal parts of loam, leaf soil, and sand, the whole being passed through a sieve with 4-inch meshes, and made moderately firm and quite level on the surface. Before sowing the seeds, the pots should be afforded water, and afterwards covered slightly with a mixture of half loam and sand passed through a very fine sieve, omitting leaf soil for covering as being a cause of damping. Care should be taken in covering the seeds that they are not buried too deeply. Place in a temperature of 60 to 65°, and put a piece of glass on the pans to check evaporation of moisture; and shade the pots, &c., from sunshine. Should the soil need moisture before germination takes place, dip the pots or pans in tepid water until the water appears on the surface of the soil. This is better than applying water with a rose watering-can, as there is then no risk of the surface caking, or of the seeds being washed away. Begonia seed should also be sown and treated in the same manner as that of Primula, only that after sowing it should not be covered with soil; merely place a piece of glass over the pot or pan and shading from sunshine.

Lobelia and all such very minute seeds are best treated in the same manner.

Seed pots should be examined daily as to the state of the soil, any neglect at this stage meaning partial or total failure. As soon as germination has taken place, the bit of glass should be tilted, more as a prevention of loss from damping off. Strict attention is required to details in raising plants from seeds under glass early in the spring.

Soil. The repotting of stove plants needs preparation. Fibrous loam and peat of good quality should be chopped into small pieces, the dust shaken out of the peat, and both should be exposed to the air for a few days before the work is begun. Sphagnum-moss should also be picked over, crocks for drainage sifted and placed in sizes ready for use.

The

Anthurium crystallinum and all the fine-foliaged varieties of Anthurium should now be repotted, using great care in handling them. most suitable compost for these plants is one consisting of sphagnum-moss one-half, peat one-quarter, and loam one-quarter, with wood liberal quantity of ashes, charcoal and to bricks broken the

a

soft

size of a pigeon's egg. In potting the plants

keep the compost well packed up round the collar of the plant, and when new roots appear from this part topdress frequently with sphag num-moss and a little wood ashes-all Aroids Plants are improved by potash in the soil. that have become unwieldy should be chopped up, and the stem cut up in the manner described for Dracænas, and they should be placed in pure sphagnum-moss till growth takes place. Large plants which are reduced never make fine speci. mens again, and it is much better to constantly raise young plants.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By W. FYFE, Gardener to Lady WANTAGE, Lockinge Park, Berkshire.

Bedding Pelargoniums.-The Pelargonium, if not so popular at the present day as a bedding plant, has but few equals for planting in vases. Where immediate effect is of first importance, the varieties Achievement, Henri Jacoby, Paul Crampel, Madame Crousse, Duke of Edin burgh, and Charles Turner are among the best; plants that are a few years old flower earlier and more freely than one-year-old ones. The ivy-leaved varieties, because of their pendant habit, are suitable for draping vases or window-boxes, planting against walls, or to form pyramidal objects 7 to 8 feet in height in tubs; for this purpose the variety Madame Crousse is unsurpassed. Autumn-struck cut-' tings should now be potted, according to variety and size, in 4 or 5-inch pots. The ivy-leaved varieties should be furnished with small sticks to which the plants should be fastened as potting proceeds. Do not stop the plants on repotting them. If the stock of plants is insufficient, cuttings should be struck singly in small pots.

The

Tuberous-rooted Begonias.-Before starting the tubers lay them out at a few inches apart on a layer of leaf-mould, finely sifted peat or silver sand, and put the pans or trays into gentle warmth-55° Fahr.-to induce growth. single and double-flowered varieties are good as bedding plants, but the single large-flowered sorts are the better ones. Aged plants of fibrousrooted or shrubby species may now be divided and cuttings taken and struck in heat of 65° to 70° and bottom heat of 80°; and also seeds may be sown. The foliage of these Begonias takes on towards the autumn very beautiful tints, and the flowers are charming.

The rock garden.-Examine the various plants and make firm in the soil any that may have been disturbed by the frosts, remove tree leaves and litter from about the plants, as, if allowed to remain, they may cause the plants to damp off. Mice sometimes cause much injury to rock plants and bulbs, and must be trapped or otherwise destroyed. The position of a rockery, whether exposed and seen from a distance, or placed in a secluded part of the garden, will determine what species of Alpines, &c., are planted on it. If in the former position, and space is ample for planting, groups of plants, say from one to three hundred, in eight or ten distinct colours all flowering at or about the same time. The following varieties may be planted, viz., Aubrietias (single and doubleflowered), Arabis, Alyssum saxatile, and A. compactum, Polyanthus, species of Cerastium, Myosotis, and Saxifraga; Pansies, Lunaria biennis, Doronicums in variety, Heuchera sanguinea, with a few dot plants such as Helleborus orientalis, &c.

Plants growing on walls.-Although the pruning and thinning will in many instances have been carried out in the autumn, frequent atten tion may still be necessary in regulating and cleaning some plants, and in reducing the too great accumulation of growth. Take, for example, the beautiful Jasminum nudiflorum, now in fine bloom. It is spoiled by autumn pruning, and sometimes by not being pruned at all, thus allowing of accumulations of annual shoots that assume, as time goes on, a faggotlike form. The proper time to prune this plant is just immediately the flowering season is over. This may consist, in old plants, in the cutting away of much of the older wood, so that the new shoots may develop flowering twigs for the following season. Many varieties of Ivy, more especially the silver and the golden, when planted against walls, are more interesting, and afford a finer effect when the main shoots are laid-in 4 or 5 inches apart, and the leaves considerably reduced in number.