## Calculation of wave shoaling with dissipation over nearshore sandsThis report provides a simplified calculation procedure for nearshore wave height changes considering the energy dissipated by rough turbulent flow over a strongly agitated bed of quartz sand. All elementary wave relationships are from linear monochromatic wave theory, but one effect of including dissipation is that calculated height changes depend on the absolute wave height. The general effect of appreciable energy loss is to make field wave height relatively constant outside the breaker zone. Example computations and a calculator program are provided. (Author). |

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0.12 millimeter 28 cm.—(Coastal engineering 9 meters Agitated sand bed appreciable effects Army Coastal Engineering bed agitation bed of quartz Bottom friction breaker zone Calculation of wave calculation procedure calculator program Celsius cm.—(Coastal engineering technical Coastal Engineering Research Corps of Engineers dissipation over nearshore effects of energy energetic waves energy dissipation coefficient Engineering Research Center engineering technical aid equation 11 Example computations EXAMPLE PROBLEM geometric mean group velocity Hallermeier Hallermeler.—Fort Belvolr height at dj including the appreciable linear wave theory maximum water depth mean water depth meters corresponding metric units millimeter nearshore sands nearshore shoaling nearshore wave height Nonlinear wave propagation procedure for nearshore program are provided provides a calculation Report provides Research Center Springfield Research Center U.S. rough turbulent flow second cubed shoaling of energetic shoaling with dissipation sinh strongly agitated bed strongly agitated sand Table C-l gives U.S. Army wave condition wave height changes wave period wave shoaling wavelength