The Self-coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance"Still the best book on improving at climbing . . . worth every penny and more."—Dave MacLeod, online climbing coach blog • In full color with 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique • Detailed anatomical illustrations explain climbing physiology A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement—balance, force, time, and space—and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The Self-Coached Climber was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival. For more information go to: http://www. |
Contents
Chapter 2 Establishing a Good Base of Support 27 | 27 |
Chapter 3 Body Awareness 45 | 45 |
Chapter 4 Turning and Flagging 65 | 65 |
Movement Initiation and Movement Centers 85 | 85 |
Chapter 6 Learning Movement in Climbing 109 | 109 |
Chapter 7 The Physiology of Climbing 125 | 125 |
Chapter 8 Aerobic Endurance Training 135 | 135 |
Chapter 9 Anaerobic Endurance Training 143 | 143 |
Chapter 11 Emotional and Mental Training 167 | 167 |
Chapter 12 SelfAssessment and Goal Setting 175 | 175 |
Chapter 13 Your Personalized Training Plan 189 | 189 |
Glossary 217 | 217 |
| 220 | |
About the Authors 223 | 223 |
| 224 | |
Back Cover | 229 |
Other editions - View all
The Self-coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance Dan Hague,Douglas Hunter No preview available - 2006 |
The Self-coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance Dan Hague,Douglas Hunter No preview available - 2005 |
Common terms and phrases
30 minutes ability activities aerobic anaerobic endurance anaerobic system anaerobic threshold apply arms attempts back step base of support begin belayer boulder problems campus board center of gravity climbers climbing moves contraction COOLDOWN create crimper crux difficult drop knee duration dyno easy efficient effort endurance training energy exercise feel footholds force forearms goal grade hand handhold improve increase indoors initiate movement keep lactic acid laps learning legs lower knee maximum ment motor learning movement centers movement intensity movement skills movement training offset balance on-sight open-loop control outdoors pelvis Performance day physical plyometrics practice pull pump range of motion reach recruitment recruitment training redpoint require rest rock same-side-in schedule sequences sidepull silent feet sloper specific spine stable balance steep Summersville Lake system wall targeted tion toes top rope Training day traverse turn visualize wall angle warmup workout