## Wind Waves: Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean SurfaceClassic study offers extended discussion of the data requirements and details of power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Enhanced and clarified by 270 figures and illustrations, the text outlines the nature of waves and wave processes and methods of measurement and classification. 40 black-and-white photographs. 213 figures. 17 tables. |

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### Contents

modulation and group velocity | 183 |

orbits | 248 |

THE PIERSONNEUMANN THEORYin which | 363 |

THE DETERMINATION OF SPECTRA FROM WAVE | 424 |

amplitude surface wave motions | 504 |

WAVE GENERATION BY WINDin which we find | 541 |

bibliographY | 639 |

657 | |

### Other editions - View all

Wind Waves: Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface Blair Kinsman Limited preview - 1965 |

### Common terms and phrases

A(or amplitude analysis angle approximation average axes boundary condition capillary waves components constant cos(kx cosh cosine crest deep water deep-water depth derivative differential Dirac delta function direction disturbance energy spectrum ensemble equation fetch finite fluid forecasting Fourier free surface frequency Gaussian gives gravity waves group velocity hyperbolic hyperbolic functions integral internal waves irrotational Laplace's equation linear mathematical mean measured motion moving observed ocean surface waves ocean waves particle period phase speed phase velocity physical Pierson position potential energy pressure problem refraction result ſ ſ sea surface shallow water sinh sinusoid slope small-amplitude ſº solution space spectra stationary statistical stream function streamline Substituting Suppose Sverdrup and Munk tanh vector viscosity vorticity wave height wave length wave number wave record wave-number wind speed x-direction zero