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afternoon ahead airport altitude sickness Annapurna arrived asked base camp beautiful Bhutt breakfast Buddha Buddhist carrying chanting chortens climbed clouds cook Cookie crossed Dablam dark Darsha Delhi drink Dudh Kosi Everest film forest gear going gompa gorge head hill Himalaya hundred Indian jeep John Jomsom Kala Pattar Kargil Kathmandu Khumbu Valley Kulu Ladakh lake lama laughing Lhotse light Lobuche lodge looking Lukla Machhapuchhare Manali miles monastery monks morning mountains Namche Nandu Naresh Nepal night Padum pass peaks Pema Pheriche Phuktal Phurba plane Pokhara ponies Ponyman porters prayer-flags prayer-wheels rice Rimdu Rimpoche river road rolled round rupees seemed Sherpas Shingo shouting smiling snow Srinagar stone stopped tchai temple tent Thamserku thousand feet Thyangboche Tibet Tibetan Tickoo trail trek trekkers trekking tsampa village waiting walked wall watched wonderful yeti Zanskar Zoji