Notes for a Young Surfer
This complex look at surf culture exploresæits inherent masculinity, as well as the violence, racism, misogyny, turf wars, and homophobia that are as much a part ofæthe sportæasæocean swells. Both a touching memoir and a sharp social critique, this analysis reveals the unwritten codes that rule all aspects of a surferÍs life from body image and national identity to politics and friendship and the issues that have imprinted themselves on Australian beaches since the Cronulla riots.
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