Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics
Andrew D. Short
Wiley, 1999 - Science - 379 pages
A highly readable book on the nature of beaches, including the dynamics of the shoreface, surf, swash and backbeach, and globally at the regional variations in beach systems from the tropics to the poles.
The beach and adjacent shoreface are the most dynamic part of the Earth's surface. They represent a narrow zone where waves, tides and winds continously interact, producing, wherever sediment is available, hundreds of thousands of kilometres of beach systems. Beaches are also the focus of intense pressure from users and developers, and for these reasons alone a knowledge of beach systems and their morphodynamics is critical to their sustainable management.
This book is the first to:
* provide an in-depth and holistic view of beach systems, looking both in detail at the different beach zones and globally at range of parameters influencing regional variation
* examine the relationship between beaches and ancillary dune systems and includes chapters on beach ecology, safety, stratification and barrier evolution.
The book is designed for use in the classroom and the office, being aimed at university level students and coastal professioanls.
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Global variation in beach systems
PART B BEACH MORPHODYNAMICS
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aeolian Australia bar and rip barrier islands beach change BEACH HAZARD RATING beach morphodynamics beach profile beach safety beach systems beach type beachface bedforms berm breaker characteristics coast cross-shore cusps deposits dissipative beaches dominated downdrift dunefields dunes dynamics edge wave embayment environments Equation equilibrium eroded erosion Figure flow foredune grain groynes headland Hesp high tide Holocene impact incident wave increasing infragravity waves intermediate beaches intertidal zone landward longshore low tide terrace macro-tidal beaches Marine Geology Masselink modal morphology nearshore occur offshore onshore parameter processes progradation reefs reflective beaches relatively result ridges rip channels rip currents ripples sand scale sea level seaward Section sediment supply sediment transport shoaling waves shore shoreline slope standing wave steep storm surf zone swash zone tidal tide range tion transgressive trough upper shoreface velocity water depth water table wave breaking wave conditions wave energy wave height wave period Western Australia wind