Handbook of Beach and Shoreface MorphodynamicsAndrew D. Short A highly readable book on the nature of beaches, including thedynamics of the shoreface, surf, swash and backbeach, and globallyat the regional variations in beach systems from the tropics to thepoles. The beach and adjacent shoreface are the most dynamic part of theEarth's surface. They represent a narrow zone where waves, tidesand winds continously interact, producing, wherever sediment isavailable, hundreds of thousands of kilometres of beach systems.Beaches are also the focus of intense pressure from users anddevelopers, and for these reasons alone a knowledge of beachsystems and their morphodynamics is critical to their sustainablemanagement. This book is the first to: * provide an in-depth and holistic view of beach systems, lookingboth in detail at the different beach zones and globally at rangeof parameters influencing regional variation * examine the relationship between beaches and ancillary dunesystems and includes chapters on beach ecology, safety,stratification and barrier evolution. The book is designed for use in the classroom and the office, beingaimed at university level students and coastal professioanls. |
Common terms and phrases
aeolian Antinode Australia backshore barrier islands beach profile beach ridges beach systems beach type beachface bedforms bedload berm blowouts Bowen breaker breaking waves coast Coastal Engineering Cowell crest cross-shore cusps dissipative beaches dominated dunefields dunes dynamics environments Equation equilibrium erosion Figure flow foredune frequency Geomorphology gradient grain Guza headland Hesp high tide Holocene impact incident wave increase infragravity waves Inman intertidal Komar landward leaky waves longshore current low tide lower shoreface macro-tidal Marine Geology ment morphology nearshore occur offshore onshore parameter predicted processes progradation reefs reflective beaches result rip currents ripples sand transport scale sea level seaward Section sedi sediment supply sediment transport shear shore shoreline Short slope standing edge waves standing wave steep storm surf zone surface swash zone swell Thom tidal tide range tion transgressive transport rates trough upper shoreface velocity water depth wave breaking wave climate wave energy wave height wave period wind Wright