Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics
A highly readable book on the nature of beaches, including the dynamics of the shoreface, surf, swash and backbeach, and globally at the regional variations in beach systems from the tropics to the poles.
The beach and adjacent shoreface are the most dynamic part of the Earth's surface. They represent a narrow zone where waves, tides and winds continously interact, producing, wherever sediment is available, hundreds of thousands of kilometres of beach systems. Beaches are also the focus of intense pressure from users and developers, and for these reasons alone a knowledge of beach systems and their morphodynamics is critical to their sustainable management.
This book is the first to:
* provide an in-depth and holistic view of beach systems, looking both in detail at the different beach zones and globally at range of parameters influencing regional variation
* examine the relationship between beaches and ancillary dune systems and includes chapters on beach ecology, safety, stratification and barrier evolution.
The book is designed for use in the classroom and the office, being aimed at university level students and coastal professioanls.
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Global variation in beach systems
PART B BEACH MORPHODYNAMICS
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aeolian Australia backshore backwash barrier islands beach hazard beach morphodynamics beach profile beach ridges beach systems beach type beachface beachface slope bedforms berm breaker breaking waves characteristics coast coastal crest cross-shore cusps dissipative beaches dominated dunefields dunes dynamics embayment environments Equation equilibrium erosion Figure flow foredune geomorphology gradient grain groynes Guza headland Hesp high tide Holocene impact incident wave increase infragravity waves Inman intermediate beach intertidal landward longshore current low tide terrace lower shoreface macro-tidal Marine Geology ment morphology nearshore occur offshore onshore parameter predicted processes progradation reefs reflective beaches relatively result ridges rip currents ripples scale sea level seaward Section sediment supply sediment transport shoaling waves shore shoreline standing edge waves standing wave steep storm surf zone swash zone tidal tide range tion transgressive trough upper shoreface uprush velocity water depth wave breaking wave climate wave conditions wave energy wave height wave period wind