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Just opposite, having slaked his thirst, the traveller finds ample resources wherewith to comfort the inner man. Hereabouts is one of the best cookshops in Beyrout, making a goodly display of various Oriental dishes, such as broths, pilaufs, kubbés, sausages made of minced meat and rice, mouhshés, and various vegetable and meat entrées.

A narrow and indifferent street leads into the most respectable commercial square, in the centre of which is a fountain. It is covered in with coarse matting to exclude rain and heat; here, seated tailor fashion, are some of the most opulent tradesmen of the city ; the goods they sell are chiefly prints, mada polams, shirtings, chintzes, etc. Interspersed with these shops are the vendors of sherbet and coffee. To our left is a long street exclusively occupied by shoemakers; but leaving these we proceed up a street to the right, leading into a smaller square, with more tradesmen, who have more European commodities for sale. The narrow street before us has most charms for the stranger whose purse strings are loosened for the purchase of souvenirs of Syria ; here we find tarbooshes of all qualities and prices, elegantly embroidered tobacco pouches, and those peculiarly beautiful stuffs, exclusively of Damascus manufacture, which are made up into caps, slippers, and reticules, and as such sold at exorbitant prices to strangers who wish to add to the elegance of a déshabille at home.

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Entering a large gateway on our right, where a solitary soldier mounts guard, we find ourselves in an extensive square, or khan, the upper buildings of which are arched and occupied as a military barrack, whilst the lower compartments are let out as shops. Coming out again, we pursue our way up the already. . mentioned street, taking the first turning to our right, when persevering through a number of narrow alleys we finally emerge into a decent thoroughfare, whose distinguishing mark is a large Hammam, or Turkish vapour bath, through the railed windows of which we make note en passant of a motley assemblage of bathers in the various stages of kef; some have already bathed, and enveloped in manifold sheets are lolling at their ease on the divans, smoking narghilès and drinking coffee; others are only just preparing to undergo the ordeal. Leaving the bath and turning sharp to the right, we enter upon the most notable street in Beyrout; here, on either side, are lofty houses and several European shops, respectively the property of Italians, Greeks, Ionians, Maltese, etc., whilst further on are the mansions of some of the European merchants; beyond these again, a grand resort of idlers, is an open café, shaded in with mats, and liberally besprinkled with little stools, narghilès, pipes, and all other requisites of Oriental kef. From this place, turning to our left, the road leads us to the gate which opens upon Ras Beyrout, and as by this time the whole day has been consumed in our



rambles, the hour of fashionable promenade has arrived ; ladies and gentlemen, whose attire would grace Regent Street or the Boulevards, here assemble for air and exercise.

The first object which attracts attention is the new European theatre, a perfect novelty and great source of amusement to the inhabitants. Walking along the cliffs and watching the gambols of the waves, we encounter numerous groups, some seated on chairs, others promenading, others again showing off their skill in horsemanship. At some distance is a noted coffee house, opposite to which are some building slips from which of late years several fine vessels have been launched; here knots of mercantile men congregate, smoke and sip coffee, and converse exclusively of commercial affairs.

Antiquity hunters and the curious find food for inquiry and amusement in the ruins a little further on, where the remnants of an amphitheatre jut out into the sea; and opposite to it on the high road is some mosaic work, the remnant of bygone ages. Beyond

commemorate the untimely end of an officer and some of the crew of a British man-of-war, whose boat was upset in the surf. The promenade extends about a mile further, but we pause here because the hour is growing late. Before us rolls in stately grandeur the mighty Mediterranean, murmuring as it laves the rocky beach a requiem, to the past glory and faded greatness



of the promised land. The sun has dipped his fiery orb in the blue bosom of the ocean, and the white sails of countless small boats float upon the surface of the deep; all the variegated hues of the rainbow are blended in the summer sky, and the land breeze is laden with twenty perfumes from the mountains.

As we reach the point whence we started in the morning the day is rapidly closing in; toil-worn labourers, fagged and dusty and hot, plod their weary way to their miserable homes, where hunger pours incense upon their frugal meals, and Morpheus seals their eyelids with refreshing slumber; the last boatload of tired sailors, who have toiled through the oppressive heat of the day, has landed the last batch of merchandise, and is returning to their floating home, which looms hazily in the distance. Quiet and silence assist night in spreading her mantle over the town, bright stars peep out from the firmament, the languid moon steals over the distant cape, the cafés are all illuminated, lights shine forth from the abodes of the wealthy, the weary are at rest, the wealthy and the civilised in the pursuit of domestic and social enjoyment.




Thou spirit of the spangled night!
I woo thee from the watch-tower high,
Where thou dost sit to guide the bark
Of lonely mariner.


In the summer months it is much the practice to sleep upon the terraces at Beyrout; the nights are so exceedingly close, and mosquitos so troublesome, that it is the only chance of getting a few hours' refreshing sleep. Sometimes the night dew is exceedingly heavy, but this is guarded against by temporary canopies or tents being erected on the terraces. Here, then, we are supposed to have been reposing after the fatigues of yesterday, and to brace us up for tomorrow's exertions, when shortly after midnight we are awakened from the profoundest sleep by the cry of


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