Dressing for the Culture Wars: Style and the Politics of Self-Presentation in the 1960s and 1970s

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U of Nebraska Press, 2015 - Design - 252 pages

Style of dress has always been a way for Americans to signify their politics, but perhaps never so overtly as in the 1960s and 1970s. Whether participating in presidential campaigns or Vietnam protests, hair and dress provided a powerful cultural tool for social activists to display their politics to the world and became both the cause and a symbol of the rift in American culture. Some Americans saw stylistic freedom as part of their larger political protests, integral to the ideals of self-expression, sexual freedom, and equal rights for women and minorities. Others saw changes in style as the erosion of tradition and a threat to the established social and gender norms at the heart of family and nation.

Through the lens of fashion and style, Dressing for the Culture Wars guides us through the competing political and social movements of the 1960s and 1970s. Although long hair on men, pants and miniskirts on women, and other hippie styles of self-fashioning could indeed be controversial, Betty Luther Hillman illustrates how self-presentation influenced the culture and politics of the era and carried connotations similarly linked to the broader political challenges of the time. Luther Hillman’s new line of inquiry demonstrates how fashion was both a reaction to and was influenced by the political climate and its implications for changing norms of gender, race, and sexuality.

 

Contents

Changing Styles among American Youths 1964 1968
1
Self Presentation Politics in Social Movement Activism
31
The Politics of Self Presentation in Feminist Activism
61
Political Drag and Self Presentation in the Gay Liberation Movement
91
Style and Popular Culture in the Late 1960s to 1970s
123
Legal Regulations of Personal Presentation in the Workplace
155
The Politics of Style in Retrospect
187
Notes
191
Bibliography
229
Index
245
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About the author (2015)

Betty Luther Hillman teaches history at Phillips Exeter Academy. Her work has appeared in the Journal of the History of Sexuality and Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies.

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