Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter PeakOne of Sports Illustrated’s Top 100 Sports Books of All Time: A gripping firsthand account of one of the most daring climbing expeditions in history. #1 New York Times Bestseller Annapurna I is the name given to the 8,100-meter mountain that ranks among the most forbidding in the Himalayan chain. Dangerous not just for its extreme height but for a long and treacherous approach, its summit proved unreachable until 1950, when a group of French mountaineers made a mad dash for its peak. They became the first men to accomplish the feat, doing so without oxygen tanks or any of the modern equipment that contemporary climbers use. The adventure nearly cost them their lives. Maurice Herzog dictated this firsthand account of the remarkable trek from a hospital bed as he recovered from injuries sustained during the climb. An instant bestseller, it remains one of the most famous mountaineering books of all time, and an enduring testament to the power of the human spirit. |
From inside the book
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... about six miles along a dusty stony road to Kapilavastu , ( now called Ruminndei ) -a not particularly impressive place , at the foot of Kipling's beloved Siwaliks . There , thousands of years ago a man was born whose youth.
... about six miles along a dusty stony road to Kapilavastu , ( now called Ruminndei ) -a not particularly impressive place , at the foot of Kipling's beloved Siwaliks . There , thousands of years ago a man was born whose youth.
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... foot of a large rock, a sadhou or holy man was fervently invoking his gods. Priests, surrounded by rapt multitudes, were reading out Vedic texts. Numbers of the faithful were making their way to Kali Gandaki, the sacred river. There ...
... foot of a large rock, a sadhou or holy man was fervently invoking his gods. Priests, surrounded by rapt multitudes, were reading out Vedic texts. Numbers of the faithful were making their way to Kali Gandaki, the sacred river. There ...
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... foot peak just at hand!” Later, when we came to explore the country, we found that the Miristi gorges were impassable; the famous Tilicho pass was not where it was marked on the map. Meanwhile our path skirted the cliffs. Looking down ...
... foot peak just at hand!” Later, when we came to explore the country, we found that the Miristi gorges were impassable; the famous Tilicho pass was not where it was marked on the map. Meanwhile our path skirted the cliffs. Looking down ...
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... foot point that overlooks Tukucha and which should command a wonderful view. At 11 A.M. I was in radio communication with them. “Coucou speaking. Just reached the top. The view is marvelous; Dhaulagiri towers above everything. The ...
... foot point that overlooks Tukucha and which should command a wonderful view. At 11 A.M. I was in radio communication with them. “Coucou speaking. Just reached the top. The view is marvelous; Dhaulagiri towers above everything. The ...
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... foot there is a relatively easy slope , which ought to open onto the north - west ridge , but from where I'm standing I can't see very well . " " What do you think of the Nilgiris ? ” " Absolutely sheer . Not a hope from this side ...
... foot there is a relatively easy slope , which ought to open onto the north - west ridge , but from where I'm standing I can't see very well . " " What do you think of the Nilgiris ? ” " Absolutely sheer . Not a hope from this side ...
Contents
THE EAST DHAULAGIRI GLACIER | |
LOOKING FOR ANNAPURNA | |
COUNCIL OF | |
CAMP II | |
THE ASSAULT | |
THE THIRD OF JUNE | |
THE CREVASSE | |
THE AVALANCHE | |
THE RETREAT | |
IN THE WOODS OF LETE | |
THROUGH THE PADDY FIELDS | |
THE MIRISTI KHOLA | |
THE SPUR | |
ANNAPURNA | |
THE SICKLE | |
GORAKHPUR | |
THERE ARE OTHER ANNAPURNAS | |
Glossary | |
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Common terms and phrases
able Adjiba Aila Ang-Tharkey Angawa Annapurna arrived avalanche Base Camp began bergschrund boots Camp II carried Chamonix climb clouds coolies couloir Couzy and Schatz crampons crevasse cross dangerous Dawatondu descent Dhaulagiri difficulty East glacier eight-thousander equipment everything Expedition eyes feeling feet felt foot Foutharkey Gandaki hands hard heard height Himalayan ice-axe Jean Couzy Katmandu knew Lachenal and Rébuffat Lachenal's Lionel Terray loads looked Maharajah Manangbhot Marcel Ichac Marcel Schatz Maurice Maurice Herzog minutes Miristi Khola mist monsoon morning mountains move Muktinath Nepal night north face Noyelle o’clock Oudot Pansy party pitch piton plateau porters reached reconnaissance ridge rock rope round route sack Sahib Sarki seemed seracs Sherpas shouted sleeping-bag slope snow soon steep steps stopped suddenly summit tent Terray’s thought Tilicho pass tomorrow took track tried tsampa Tukucha turn valley village wall weather wind yards