The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates

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Alison Hodge Publishers, 2009 - Coastal landforms - 176 pages
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Following international acclaim for "Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing", Tony Butt's "The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates" will appeal to surfers and all those who are fascinated by the sea and the coast. Four major sections look at coastal geology (beaches; reefs; rivermouths); climate and big waves (climatic cycles; storminess and surf; searching for the biggest waves; controlling the waves: every surfer's dream; coastal intervention (coastal erosion; coastal modification and the surf; oil spills and ecocide); and the planet bites back (tropical cyclones; global warming and the surf; tsunami).
 

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Contents

Coastal Geology
12
Climate and Big Waves
48
Coastal lntervention
88
The Planet Bites Back
128
Some books you might enjoy
172
Copyright

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About the author (2009)

Tony Butt is a big-wave specialist based in the Basque Country and postdoctoral research fellow at the University of Plymouth, England. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines and runs a wave prediction website (www.swellforecast.com).

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