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20th century Cotton Bali Balinese bast fiber batik batik tulis blue border Borneo center field Central Java ceremonial textiles Cirebon color cotton decorated display dodot double ikat dye bath embroidered examples F1gure fabric feature gilt-metal headhunting Holmgren and Spertus Iban Ibid Indian Indonesian Indonesian textiles island Javanese Khan Majlis 1984 Lampung Lampung area Lembata main warp fringe Maxwell Minangkabau Morinda citrifolia motifs Nabholz-Kartaschoff Ngada north coast ornamentation paired warps Palembang palepai Paminggir panels joined Pasemah patola pattern sticks piece plain weave ritual rows sarongs satin stitches Shoulder Cloth Skirt Cloth kain songket South Sumatra stripes of cotton Sumba supplementary brocading wefts supplementary patterning wefts supplementary weft Surakarta tampan tapestry weave technique Timor traditional tumpal waist warp ikat warp resist dyed warp stripes warp threads warp-faced plain weave wayang weave with supplementary weavers weft ikat weft resist dyed weft threads weft wrapping weft-ribbed plain weave women worn woven Yogyakarta