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analysis angle approximately average Beach Erosion Board beach process Beach Profiles beach slope channel coast coefficient of sorting computed Corps of Engineers cosh curve Denison Reservoir deposits determined direction of littoral Drakes Bay Drying shoal east elevation equation equilibrium factors feet Figure Fire Island foreshore slope fraction freeboard heavy minerals incipient inland reservoirs littoral drift Location Long Island material maximum mean low water measured median diameter mid-tide miles Mission Beach Montauk Point Moriches Inlet Napeague natural beaches observed Ocean Beach offshore particle percent Plate process elements Range records Rockaway Rockaway Inlet Rockaway Point run-up Russian River sand samples seaward sediment seiche Shinnecock Inlet SHORE OF LONG shown size frequency distribution skewness south shore Table thorium and heavy variables water surface wave characteristics wave height wave period wave stations wind tide wind velocities zone