Fried Chicken: An American Story

Front Cover
Penguin, 2004 - Cooking - 180 pages
What could be a more fun and delicious way to celebrate American culture than through the lore of our favorite foods? That's what John T. Edge does in his smart, witty, and compulsively readable new series on the dishes everyone thinks their mom made best. If these are the best-loved American foods-ones so popular they've come to represent us-what does that tell us about ourselves? And what do the history of the dish and the regional variations reveal?

There are few aspects of life that carry more emotional weight and symbolism than food, and in writing about our food icons, Edge gives us a warm and wonderful portrait of America -by way of our taste buds. After all, "What is patriotism, but nostalgia for the foods of our youth?" as a Chinese philosopher once asked.

In Fried Chicken, Edge tells an immensely entertaining tale of a beloved dish with a rich history. Freed slaves cooked it to sell through the windows of train cars from railroad platforms in whistle-stop towns. Children carried it in shoe boxes on long journeys. A picnic basket isn't complete without it. It is a dish that is deeply Southern, and yet it is cooked passionately across the country. And what about the variations? John T. Edge weaves a beguiling tapestry of food and culture as he takes us from a Jersey Shore hotel to a Kansas City roadhouse, from the original Buffalo wings to KFC, from Nashville Hot Chicken to haute fried chicken at a genteel Southern inn. And, best of all, he gives us fifteen of the ultimate recipes along the way.
 

Contents

Wherein I Argue for a New Theory of Fried Chicken
1
Skillet Sisters of the Chalfonte Hotel
9
Pahovana Piletina Thats Fried Chicken to You
19
Talking Trash and Chicken with the King of the Mutts
29
Viva Pollo Campero
39
Of Wattles and Waffles
51
CockADoodle Dont
63
Austin Leslie Creole Comet
75
The Chicken Bone Express
97
Chasing Chicken on a Slow Time Sunday Morning
107
On the Wings of Mother Teressa
117
The Bouglean Conceit
129
The Coronation of a Kansas City Roadhouse Queen
139
Seoul Food
149
A Sonnet in Two Birds
157
A Chicken Coda
167

Deacon Burton and His Atlanta Flock
87

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About the author (2004)

John T. Edge, whose work has appeared in Gourmet and Saveur and has been featured in Best Food Writing for the last three years, is also the director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi. His many books include the James Beard Award- nominated cookbook A Gracious Plenty, and he is a finalist for the 2004 M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation.

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