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adrenaline altitude began blood body boots Boulder camp canyon cliffs climbers climbing clouds codeine cold Cold Mountain Colorado crampons dancing dark dead desert drum east edge empty endorphin Everest extreme sports fall feeling felt forest gamma-endorphin half happen hard hike hour hundred feet ice ax Igjugarjuk Indian Kathmandu kayak Khari Khola Khumbu kind kuli lamas leeches Lhotse looked magic meditation Milarepa miles mind minutes moun Mount Kenya Mount Neva mountain mountainside Namche Bazaar Nepal Neva night pack peak Perqanaq physical rain ritual river road rock runners running saddhu screes seemed shaman shamanistic Sherpa snow sport steep stone strange stress stuff summit sweat Takshindu Tall Bull tent Tenzing thin air things thought Tibetan tiny trail trees Trujillo tummo turned valley vision vision quest walking wanted weather wind