Nearshore Sediment TransportR.J. Seymour This book represents the efforts of over a hundred individuals who planned and executed the NSTS field experiments, analyzed the billions of data points, and distilled their findings and insights into the summaries found here. Because these experiments were of a scope that will seldom, if ever, be duplicated, and because the program brought together many of the foremost field experimentalists in this country, we all felt from the beginning that it was important to preserve the outcome. This was done in two ways. First, the raw data were made available to any interested investigator within 18 months of the completion of each experiment. Secondly, both the methodology of the experiments and the findings from them were codified in the form of a monograph. This book is that result. I have had the occasion recently (Sediments '87 Proceedings, Vol. 1, pp. 642-651) to assess the NSTS performance. I found that we made giant strides in our understanding of the surf zone hydrodynamics --far more than our fondest expectations at the beginning. We were able to do less than we had hoped about the response of the sediment, largely because of a limited ability to measure it at a point. As I reported in the Sediments '87 assessment, we established a new state of the art in measurement techniques and we demonstrated the effectiveness of large, multi-investigator, instrument-intensive experiments for studying nearshore processes. |
Contents
| 1 | |
MEASURING THE INCIDENT WAVE FIELD | 27 |
MEASURING THE NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGY | 37 |
MEASURING SURF ZONE DYNAMICS | 51 |
B Field Measurements of Rip Currents E C S Tang | 61 |
MEASURING SEDIMENT DYNAMICS | 79 |
R W Sternberg | 95 |
TRANSPORT DETERMINATION BY TRACERS | 103 |
NEARSHORE CIRCULATION | 183 |
B Rip Currents and Wave Groups E C S Tang | 205 |
SUSPENDED SEDIMENT MEASUREMENTS | 231 |
B Discrete Measurements of Suspended Sediment | 259 |
CROSSSHORE TRANSPORT | 273 |
MEASURING LONGSHORE TRANSPORT WITH | 287 |
TRAPS | 313 |
MODELS FOR SURF ZONE DYNAMICS | 337 |
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Common terms and phrases
Abrupt decay Eq American Society analysis approximately average bathymetry beach profiles beach slope bedload breaker calculated Chapter Civil Engineers Coastal Engineering Conference coefficient components concentration contours Crickmore cross-shore cross-shore transport current meter data sets decay Eq 6B-7 depth direction distribution edge waves energy equation erosion error estimator flow frequency Geophysical Research grain/gm cutoff immersed weight incident wave inner surf zone intersurvey periods Journal of Geophysical Leadbetter Beach linear longshore current longshore sediment transport longshore transport longshore transport rate longshore velocity maximum mean measured motion nearshore nonlinear NSTS observed parameters predicted pressure sensors radiation stress Rayleigh distribution rip currents Rudee Inlet samplers sand transport shear stress slope array Society of Civil sounding lines spectra spectrum surf beat surf zone suspended load suspended sediment swash Thornton and Guza Torrey Pines Beach tracer transport system values variation Virginia Beach wave height wave number