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afternoon Aguelhok ahead Ahmed ould Ahmed's Akjoujt animal Arabic asked Assekrem Atar baggage Bamako beasts began body boubou bouctou bull camels Chig Chinguetti companion couple crossed desert dunes Erbah eyes face fear feet felt ground guerbas Gul Mahomed half hand Hassaniya hauled head headcloth headrope heat highway hour Ibrahim journey knew Land-Rover legs looked Mafud's Mahomed Mali Mauritania meat ment midday camp miles Monod morning move Murzuk Nasrani neck never night nomads Nouakchott oasis once Oualata ould Mohammed ould Mohammed's reached realised riding rock rode saddle Sahara sand seemed seen sextant side Sidi Mahmoud sleep slowly started stood stopped Tamanrasset Tanezrouft tassoufra tent Tessalit Theodore Monod thing thought Tichit Tidjikja told Tombouctou tracks travelling trees Tuareg turned wadi walked watched week Wilfred Thesiger wind wondered yards