Chasing Waves: A Surfer's Tale of Obsessive Wandering: Easyread Super Large 18pt Edition
'The people, the places, the loves, the losses, and the aching curiosity about one's own destiny and motivationsit's all rendered here in strong, fresh prose. This beautiful, worthy book has a place in every surf-literature home library, and is doubtless just the beginning of a great writer's career.'' Daniel Duane, author of Caught Inside ''A sense of freedom, overcoming fears, discovering new cultures, dealing with love, the exciting, unexplainable feeling of riding a wave this is what Chasing Waves is all about.'' Mary Osborne, pro surfer and co-author of Surf Sister SURF-SATURATED DAYDREAMS In Chasing Waves, Amy Waeschle shares her globe-trotting adventures and chronicles her evolution from a nervous newbie to a self-confident and skillful surfer: Cramming into a hot bus near Playa Linda, Mexico, clutching a beat-up foam body board. Quivering, blue-lipped, on a rocky beach after a session in Vancouver Island's icy swells. Braving explosions of ocean spray and hanging out with ski bums in Fiji. Discovering small villages and the essence of ''pura vida'' in Costa Rica. Finding a quick surf fix off the coast of Sicily ... For Waeschle, surfing is more of a feeling than a sport, a response to the freedom and grace of riding waves. And in the course of her surfing odyssey, she learns to balance love and family with her surf lust. Amy Waeschle is a freelance writer and photographer whose work has appeared in Surf Life for Women, Surfline.com , The Seattle Times, and the Patagonia catalog. She lives in the state of Washington with her husband and daughter.
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Chasing Waves: A Surfers Tale of Obsessive Wandering: Easyread Edition
Limited preview - 2009
Abner arms asked beach break began beneath big swell blue board shorts boat breath called camp’s catch caught inside Chasing Waves cliff coast cold Costa Rica couldn’t crowds deep didn’t Dillon driver drop edge Elsa eyes face feeling feet felt Fiji Fijian Flash Frigates front grin hair hard head horizon incoming wave Karen King Kong kook Kurt Kurt’s Leah leash lines of swell lineup longboard looked morning night ocean Ollies paddle back paddled peeling perfect pulled rashguard reef resort Rick Rick’s ride rivermouth road sand seemed set wave sharks shore shortboarders shrugged Sicily sitting smile spray squinted Steve stroked sunscreen sure surf camp Surf Sister surface surfboard surfers takeoff Tamarindo thick thought Tico tide tiny told tried trip trying turned Waeschle waiting walking wall wanted wasn’t watched we’d wetsuit white water wind Witch’s Rock wondered