Grow Your Own Vegetables : a Practical Handbook for Allotment Holders and Those Wishing to Grow Vegetables in Small Gardens; what to Grow, where to Grow, when to Grow, how to Grow
T.F. Unwin, Limited, 1918 - 199 pages
What people are saying - Write a review
We haven't found any reviews in the usual places.
Other editions - View all
Grow Your Own Vegetables: A Practical Handbook for Allotment Holders and ...
Stanley Currie Johnson
No preview available - 2008
allotment allotment-holders ammonia April artichokes autumn beetroots Board of Agriculture Borecole boxes brassica broad beans broccoli Brussels Sprouts bulbs cabbages Carrot Fly carrots cauliflowers Celeriac celery CHAPTER cold frame crop Cucumbers cultivation digging disease drills early earth February flower foliage fork frosts garden give green ground grow grower grown growth hotbed inches June kohl-rabi land late later layer Leaflet leaves Leeks lettuces lifted lime liquid manure loam main-crop manure water March mature Mushrooms necessary nitrogen obtained onions outdoor parsnips peas and beans pest plants Plate plot pods potash potatoes pots produce quantities radishes rhubarb rich ridge roots rows Seakale season seedlings September shallots shallow shoots slugs soil soot sown specimens Spinach spray spring sprinkled stalks stems stored sulphate of ammonia superphosphate supplies surface thin Tomatoes transplant trenches tubers turnips varieties Vegetable Marrows weather weeds whilst winter wireworms
Page 54 - Not only may such a mixture result in the loss of nitrogen, but the mass is apt to become sticky and difficult to sow. Superphosphate and dissolved bones should not be mixed with basic slag or precipitated phosphate, as this results in the soluble phosphate of the superphosphate or dissolved bones becoming insoluble.
Page 127 - Wherever it is possible, onions should not be grown again, for at least one season, on land where this crop has been infested, as the puparia remain in the ground during the winter. All fragments of bulbs should be removed from infested land, as the larva occasionally pupate in the bulbs.
Page 128 - During the early stage of the disease the fungus exercises a very marked stimulating effect on the growth of the onion. This is shown by the rapid increase in length of that portion situated between the top of the bulb and the base of the leaves. This abnormally elongated portion is spoken of as the ' neck,' and the presence of this is a certain sign of the existence of the disease.
Page 180 - ... trench two spits deep and break up third spit with fork. Put a thick layer of manure over third spit and work in a liberal quantity of old mortar, decayed vegetable matter and rotten manure among upper spits. In March, double dig the soil again and add layer of decayed manure between first and second spits. In case of heavy wet soils put a thick layer of brick rubble under second spit in October. Plant in April. Open a trench 12 in. deep on each side of row thus A and spread out roots on each...
Page 180 - or points of each plant to be 5 in. below the surface. Mulch with decayed manure. Three-year-old plants best for planting. Cutting : No shoots to be removed first year, moderate quantity the second year, freely afterwards. Shoots should not be less than 6 in. long when cut. Cease cutting end of June. General treatment : Apply manures as advised below. Keep beds free of weeds. Cut down stems early in November.
Page 132 - Pressing the earth close round the stems tends to prevent the flies from egg laying. This may be done immediately after the plants are thinned. (6) Heavy watering of the crop after thinning tends to consolidate the soil, and so wards off an attack. (7) Sand or ashes, impregnated with paraffin or carbolic acid, may be scattered over the plants at thinning time to keep the flies from them. The great object must be to prevent the flies from laying eggs on the carrots, and for this purpose offensive...
Page 165 - ... hearts. Therefore, plant them in a warm sunny position, give plenty of plain water, feed with dilute manure water once a week when well established, hoe between the rows, and pull alternative plants when supplies are required. Seedlings planted out in the hottest weeks of the summer are apt to fail owing to the dryness of the ground and the heat of the sun. In their case it is impossible to adopt the above methods for promoting quick growth. They should be planted between the lines of peas, or...
Page 180 - ... a crop, we give the following brief details as they appear in " An Encyclopaedia of Gardening " :— '' Outdoor Culture, soil, deep rich sandy loam. Position, open and sunny preferably; will succeed, however, in partial shade. Preparation of soil : In October or November, trench two spits deep and break up third spit with fork. Put a thick layer of manure over third spit and work in a liberal quantity of old mortar, decayed vegetable matter and rotten manure among upper spits. In March, double...
Page 38 - The eradication of perennials, such as couch, bindweed, and creeping-thistle, needs careful and well-directed effort. These plants are propagated by underground runners bearing buds, and the best treatment where they are concerned is shallow ploughing and thorough cultivation, the weeds being collected and burnt. Or the weeds may be brought to the surface and left to the drying effects of wind and sun.
Page 54 - ... desired to apply sulphate of ammonia with one of these substances to any particular area of ground, the phosphate should be put on a month or more before the other substance. Sulphate of ammonia may, however, be mixed with the other ordinary manures, such as superphosphate, dissolved bones, bonemeal, kainit, sulphate and muriate of potash, and nitrate of soda. Nitrate of soda should not be mixed with superphosphate, dissolved bones, or dissolved guano. Not only does such a mixture result in the...