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angle approximately backfill Beach Erosion Board berm bottom breaker breaking wave breakwater bulkhead chart coefficient computed concrete construction contours cubic foot curves deadman deep water wave design wave determined diagram diffraction direction of littoral downdrift dredge dune duration ELEVATION OF WALL equation feet fetch length fill foot of wall friction geostrophic wind groin high water hindcasting horizontal inlet isobars jetties lake LAKE WORTH INLET landward littoral drift littoral material littoral transport littoral zone low water maximum minimum nautical miles orthogonal particles pounds per square pressure protection refraction rip current riprap rubble-mound run-up sand seawall seaward seiches shallow water shore line shown in Figure significant wave square foot stability stone storm structure surface tidal tide timber unit weight updrift vertical WALL CREST water level wave action wave crest wave forces wave height wave length wave period width wind speed zone