Guide to Wave Analysis and Forecasting |
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analysis approach bottom boundary layer buoy calculated Chapter characteristic chart coastal computed contours coupled hybrid curves decoupled propagation deep water density diffraction dissipation distance distribution effects equation estimate example factor fetch friction geostrophic geostrophic wind given gradient wind grid group velocity growth height and period hindcast Hmax Hrms input interactions intervals isallobaric isobars Isobaths manual Meteorological method metres non-linear North Sea Norwegian Meteorological Institute numerical wave models obtained ocean parameters peak frequency plot radar refraction return value scale sea surface SEASAT sensor shallow water ship shoaling significant wave height sinusoidal waves spectral statistical storm swell T₂ verification vertical water depth wave components wave crest wave data wave direction wave energy wave forecasting wave frequency wave models wave period wave record wave spectrum wavefield wavelength wavenumber wind direction wind observations wind speed wind-sea wind-waves windfield