Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface |
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Page 60
... large waves , nor did the Michelan- gelo encounter more than one . This seems to have been a very deep trough followed by a massive crest . The flare of the ship's bow was crumpled , the inch - thick glass of the bridge windows eighty ...
... large waves , nor did the Michelan- gelo encounter more than one . This seems to have been a very deep trough followed by a massive crest . The flare of the ship's bow was crumpled , the inch - thick glass of the bridge windows eighty ...
Page 178
... waves . Engi- neer Robert Haring of that company reports that this test platform is a one - sixth to one ... large crane . From then on , the wave - force trans- ducers , current meters ... WAVES Property to be sensed 178 WAVES AND BEACHES.
... waves . Engi- neer Robert Haring of that company reports that this test platform is a one - sixth to one ... large crane . From then on , the wave - force trans- ducers , current meters ... WAVES Property to be sensed 178 WAVES AND BEACHES.
Page 300
... large waves have smaller ones on their flanks , which may be parallel to the large crests or at a large angle to them , suggesting variations in the current direction and velocity . The observations have not been taken over a long ...
... large waves have smaller ones on their flanks , which may be parallel to the large crests or at a large angle to them , suggesting variations in the current direction and velocity . The observations have not been taken over a long ...
Contents
Ideal Waves | 23 |
Wind Waves | 40 |
Waves in Shallow Water | 74 |
Copyright | |
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average basin beach face berm boat bottom breakers breakwater buoy California Cape Horn capillary waves caused changes cliff coast coastal currents deep water depth Dukw dunes effect engineer erosion feet high feet long flow force harbor Humboldt Bay hundred feet internal waves island jetty knots land large waves littoral drift low tide measured meters miles moon motion moving observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific period pipe PLATE pressure pump record refraction rip current ripple tank ripples rock rogue wave sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship shore shoreline side slope small waves speed steep storm waves structure surfboard surfer swell tank tidal tide gauge tion transport trough tsunami turbine underwater usually velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave crests wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation wind