Mazda Miata MX-5 Performance Projects |
Contents
Section 1 Getting Started | 11 |
Oil Change | 13 |
Shifter Boot Replacement | 15 |
Setting the Timing | 17 |
Preparing your Miata for the Track | 19 |
Replacing the Spark Plugs and Wires | 21 |
Changing the Fuel Filter | 23 |
Headlight Replacement and Upgrade | 25 |
Transmission | 60 |
Replacing or Repairing a Leaky Clutch Slave Cylinder | 61 |
Installing a New Clutch or Flywheel | 63 |
Installing a Torsen Limited Slip | 67 |
Exhaust | 70 |
Installing a Header | 72 |
Brakes | 74 |
Lubricating the Slider Pins | 76 |
Engine | 27 |
Changing the Valve Cover and Cam Angle Sensor Gaskets | 29 |
Replacing a Timing Belt | 32 |
Changing the Water Pump | 36 |
Fixing Noisy HLAs | 38 |
Repairing a Damaged Crank Nose | 39 |
Removing and Replacing a Miata Head | 42 |
Retrofitting an NB Head on an NA Engine | 45 |
Engine Removal | 47 |
Installing an Engine | 51 |
Installing a 181 Engine in a 161 Car | 53 |
Cooling | 55 |
Replacing a Thermostat | 56 |
Replacing the Radiator | 58 |
Changing Brake Rotors and Pads | 78 |
Installing Stainless Steel Brake Lines | 81 |
Fitting Bigger Brakes to Your Miata | 83 |
Suspension | 85 |
Sway Bars | 87 |
Shocks | 89 |
Replacing the Suspension Bushings | 93 |
Replacing the Convertible Top | 97 |
Roll Bar Installation | 101 |
How to Stripe a Miata | 105 |
Installing New Gauge Faces | 108 |
Resources | 110 |
| 111 | |
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Common terms and phrases
10-millimeter bolts adjuster aftermarket alignment attached autocross axle bar end link bellhousing bleed screw bolts holding bolts that hold boot brake fluid bushings caliper cam angle sensor catalytic converter clamps clean clutch line coils Complementary modification connector control arm coolant crank differential Disconnect drain pan drive easier electrical connector engine bay everything exhaust manifold filter flywheel front ft-lbs fuel gasket head hole hose hours Tools inches install intake manifold jack stands later cars leaks loosen Mazda Miata pads pedal penetrating oil Performance gain plastic plug project 11 pull pulley radiator rear reinstall remove replace rotor rubber screw screwdriver seal side slave cylinder slide slider pin socket socket set stripe sure suspension sway bar sway bar end Talent There's tighten Tinware torque wrench Torsen transmission underneath undo Unplug upper control arm valve cover vinyl wheels wires
Popular passages
Page 10 - ... reached. The beam-style is inexpensive and works, but it can be difficult to read in tight spaces. Electronic torque wrenches work well for engine builders and professional mechanics, but they are more than what is required for a home garage.
Page 10 - The thinner heads of quality tools will make it easier to reach hidden fasteners. Whenever possible, use the closed end of the wrench to avoid damage to bolt heads.
Page 9 - This has an open end and a closed end. The size range is the same as with sockets, but it helps to have two of the most common sizes: 10, 12, 14, and These are torque wrenches. The two on the bottom are "clicker" types that adjust either by turning the handle or a knob on the side.
Page 10 - A nice set of bullnose pliers can be used for grabbing, twisting, and holding. Vice-grips (or molegrips) are good for persuasion, but they do tend to be hard on parts.