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n Ideal Waves
Wind Waves 40
Waves in Shallow Water
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average basin beach face berm boat bottom breakers breakwater California Cape Horn capillary waves caused changes cliff coast coastal created currents deep water depth Dukw dunes effect engineer erosion feet high feet long flow force harbor Humboldt Bay hundred feet internal waves island jetties knots land large waves littoral drift measured meters miles moon motion moving observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific period plate pressure pump record refraction rip current ripple tank ripples rock rogue wave sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship shore shoreline side slope small waves speed steep storm waves structure surfboard surfer swell tank tidal tide gauge tion transport trough tsunami turbine underwater usually velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave crest wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation wave passes wind